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| IL-2 Sturmovik The famous combat flight simulator. |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1
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The question is: Is that spring worth $30-40?
Also there's a tradeoff: The spring increases friction, unfortunately there is plastic "gliding" on plastic... just a thought. |
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#2
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The spring isn't worth the extra money, but the pro is.
Just to clarify, the extra spring on the pro gives the stick a better feel, but that is not what makes it more responsive. If I remember correctly the pro is supposed to have twice as many sensors (or possibly sensors twice as good ?). When I changed from the standard X52 to the pro I found it was much easier to control an aircraft with just small movements of the stick, especially near the center. I definitely found it easier to keep the crosshairs on an enemy plane using the pro. So, yes, the pro is worth the extra cost IMHO. |
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#3
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As we all know, there are many Hotas on the market and all have pros, cons, and specially flaws. Considering all that, since the choice is X52 vs X52 Pro, I'd go for X52.
I have no interest in the programmable display and, having tried both, I don't think the pro has a significant advantage over the X52to justify the extra buck. IMO, X52is more cost effective - specially if one does not need the new lcd functions. té mais tityus |
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#4
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The X52 was useless if you wanted to hit your target quickly. IF the X52 Pro fixed the huge deadzone issue then it may be a viable option. I also don't particularly like the programming software. Personally I wouldn't tough another one with a ten foot pole.
Unfortunately there hasn't been a good joystick since the MSFF2. Although the new Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas appears to have the qualities of a very good stick without force feedback. I will probably buy one soon, hopefully it won't join my Saitek X52, CH Fighterstick, Logitech G940, and Thrustmaster Cougar gathering dust in the basement. |
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#5
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Invest 20min of your time and you wont have a deadzone anymore, even on a non-pro.
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#6
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Hi Swiss, I bought one of the original X52's, and took it apart to fix the deadzone, but found it was a software issue that couldn't be adjusted in the stick setup. This was also verified by other users. BUT this was along time ago. What is the new fix.
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#7
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Remove the magnet holder thingy, take both magnets, stack them up, put them directly underneath the hall, center them - done.
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#8
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Try a cheap Thrustmaster 16000M. One year of heavy use here, modified to have longer shaft, and just perfect as the first day of use.
Maybe the moving parts don't last as long as a MSFF2, and I don't have FFB, but all the rest are really good. One great and cheap piece of hardware, but with small recognition I don't know why. |
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#9
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Thrustmaster 16000M uses Hall sensors, the old MS sticks some optical sensor instead of potentiometers found in most joysticks. Both don't wear out over time
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#10
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Quote:
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