Joystick mods

[jimbop]

Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere but a quick search didn't yield much (probably due to the dual-meaning of 'mod').

What joystick mods have people found effective? I have the X52 Pro and have done the magnet mod to increase sensitivity at the centre as well as some old-fashioned cable-ties on the spring to loosen it up a bit.

I'm particular thinking of extending the shaft - has anyone done this? If so, is it effective at increasing fine control around the centre? Feel free to point me in the right direction of a previous thread, thanks.

[Zoom2136]

What joystick mods have people found effective? I have the X52 Pro and have done the magnet mod to increase sensitivity at the centre as well as some old-fashioned cable-ties on the spring to loosen it up a bit.

Well I guess it's all a question of preference, I have a plastic disc inserted under the base of the plastic grip to compress the spring and "stiff up" my X-52 Pro :)

[_79_dev]

~S~

In my x52 mouse yoke is twisted and cracked, that mod comes automaticly after 5years of using x52....:)

[1.JaVA_Platypus]

Does anyone know what I should use to lubricate my joystick (X52 Pro)? I own it for several years and it is now rather squeeky.

[JumpingHubert]

with extension mod you have higher leverage force. I get a second hand hotas cougar from ebay for 107 Euro because of its full metal mechanics. then i made an extension mod like this one:
http://users.accesscomm.ca/9thumbs/prop-gear.jpg

Replaced the crappy original potentiometers with this one http://www.ttiinc.com/object/bitechnologies_P260_Potentiometer.html. 11 Euro for the 3 pots.

[jimbop]

with extension mod you have higher leverage force. I get a second hand hotas cougar from ebay for 107 Euro because of its full metal mechanics. then i made an extension mod like this one:
http://users.accesscomm.ca/9thumbs/prop-gear.jpg

Replaced the crappy original potentiometers with this one http://www.ttiinc.com/object/bitechnologies_P260_Potentiometer.html. 11 Euro for the 3 pots.

Thanks, looks interesting. What's it like to use?

[JumpingHubert]

its more immersive and smoother. This is my solution, not very stylish, but cheap and easy built up
http://www7.pic-upload.de/thumb/26.04.11/23smhbm8xc6.jpg (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-9733934/DSCF1455.jpg.html)

[recoilfx]

with extension mod you have higher leverage force. I get a second hand hotas cougar from ebay for 107 Euro because of its full metal mechanics. then i made an extension mod like this one:
http://users.accesscomm.ca/9thumbs/prop-gear.jpg

Replaced the crappy original potentiometers with this one http://www.ttiinc.com/object/bitechnologies_P260_Potentiometer.html. 11 Euro for the 3 pots.

What size nut and pipe did you use on the cougar? Does it thread perfectly? Something I can order online or pick up from home depot?

I've extended my Warthog, though it's a little bit hacky, I'd like a simpler build.

Here is mine:
http://i.imgur.com/gdewOl.jpg
http://imgur.com/MwcSnl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/fYrQ3l.jpg

[JumpingHubert]

the outer diameter of the aluminium pipe is 2,4cm, nut size of the both hosepipe-adapters are identical with cougar nut. From here i get the idea http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=661438&postcount=2 I get the components in my local building-center.

P.S. very cool gaming area

[jimbop]

Thanks guys. Doubt it will be so easy on the X52 since there's no nut and thread arrangement so I might try and get a used Cougar somewhere.

[JumpingHubert]

good decision. If you have later questions how to reduce the tolerance or the strong springs of the coguar i have a couple of tips.

[jimbop]

good decision. If you have later questions how to reduce the tolerance or the strong springs of the coguar i have a couple of tips.

Just bought a used one - please pass your tips on, thanks!

[JumpingHubert]

you can reduce for example the tolerance of the one axis beside the long slot with the sheet of this http://www.klangspiel.ch/boat_bausatz_dieters/images/20051126_093150.jpg
No joke. I´ve done this tweak and it works very good. Fix it with glue on the opposed side (hotglue). I´ve lost the cable of my camera so I cant make photos of it.

the other thing are the potentiometers. there is a very expensive alternative called hall sensor or a cheaper but 1000 times better alternative as the original plastic pots. Look here: http://leobodnar.com/products/BU0836X/p260.pdf
I got 3 of the p260 model. They are steered with a servo horn for throttle, x and y axis to gave them a working degree of nearly 170°. the smaller the servo of the pot in relation to its opponent the bigger the working area. Its similar to this http://www.wingsofhonour.com/hardware/thrustmasterhotascougar/review_modding-u2nxt-hs2-hs1_20090718/html_woh_hardware_review_cougar-u2nxt-hs_20090718.en.html
I hope you can follow my horrible english :grin:

edit:
http://www7.pic-upload.de/thumb/29.04.11/y2smdz9vknmj.jpg (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-9773556/dddddd.jpg.html)
looks messy but works. The good thing on hotglue is you can remove it completly or adjust all glued elements.

[malazan]

Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere but a quick search didn't yield much (probably due to the dual-meaning of 'mod').

What joystick mods have people found effective? I have the X52 Pro and have done the magnet mod to increase sensitivity at the centre as well as some old-fashioned cable-ties on the spring to loosen it up a bit.

I'm particular thinking of extending the shaft - has anyone done this? If so, is it effective at increasing fine control around the centre? Feel free to point me in the right direction of a previous thread, thanks.




I extend my shaft on a regular basis...

[JumpingHubert]

I extend my shaft on a regular basis...
this statement made my day....

[Sokol1]

Jimbop

Doubt it will be so easy on the X52 since there's no nut and thread arrangement

You dont need nut like in cougar to extend your X-52. In fact are more easy without this thing.

Sokol1

[recoilfx]

Yep, the hard part of extending x52 is not finding the right nut and pipe - it's actually the easier as you don't have to worry about threading.

The harder part is probably the need to work on the 15 wires that runs from the base to the stick. You'd have to make 30 connections. Still it's not hard, but it's tedious.

[jimbop]

Yep, the hard part of extending x52 is not finding the right nut and pipe - it's actually the easier as you don't have to worry about threading.

The harder part is probably the need to work on the 15 wires that runs from the base to the stick. You'd have to make 30 connections. Still it's not hard, but it's tedious.

Thanks Sokol1, recoilfx. Did you extend with internal or external (i.e. larger or smaller diameter) tube? You would have to secure it to the grip pretty well because of the rudder twist or did you use the existing pin arrangement?

[JumpingHubert]

Just bought a used one - please pass your tips on, thanks!
are you kidding? I asked you if you´r interested in more tips and hints. I gave you tips, opened cougar, made photo and....no reaction? It seems you doesn´t bought a used one. Very odd....

[jimbop]

are you kidding? I asked you if you´r interested in more tips and hints. I gave you tips, opened cougar, made photo and....no reaction? It seems you doesn´t bought a used one. Very odd....

I have bought it (eBay) but haven't received it yet. Your stuff will be very helpful when it arrives - thanks for passing it on and nothing wrong with your English...

I like tinkering! Still have the X52 obviously and will give it a last chance with another mod but I don't like the plastic internals one bit. Right now I'm pulling apart an old Logitech joystick to make a new panel and starting to think about how to use the hat switch buttons...

[JumpingHubert]

I have bought it (eBay) but haven't received it yet. Your stuff will be very helpful when it arrives - thanks for passing it on and nothing wrong with your English...

I like tinkering! Still have the X52 obviously and will give it a last chance with another mod but I don't like the plastic internals one bit. Right now I'm pulling apart an old Logitech joystick to make a new panel and starting to think about how to use the hat switch buttons...

sorry, misunderstanded completly.....

[gflinch]

Recoil: Nice setup you got there. I'm on a Mac myself. What is your setup CPU and GFX? Do you have plans to mount the throttle to the chair too? Never saw someone do that with a Herman Miller chair! Looks great.

Greg

[julian265]

If you're interested in, but not familiar with HE sensors, have a read of the link in my sig.

You can make them quite cheaply (under $10 each) with linear output, no spiking, and no contacting parts -> no wear.

The hard part is mounting them nicely in a stick with a conventional base.

[jimbop]

If you're interested in, but not familiar with HE sensors, have a read of the link in my sig.

You can make them quite cheaply (under $10 each) with linear output, no spiking, and no contacting parts -> no wear.

The hard part is mounting them nicely in a stick with a conventional base.

Thanks - I've just been thinking about using a U-joint or similar for building a stick and now I know I'm not crazy... A car U-joint seems a bit excessive though? What about a tie rod end or something?

Is that yours in the link?

[Widowmaker214]

I just finished modding my cougar...

Got uber cougar U2NXT gimbal replacement and hal effect pots.

also got the hal pot kit for my thrustmaster elite rudders.

Awesome. Expensive.. but.. awesome.

[jimbop]

I just finished modding my cougar...

Got uber cougar U2NXT gimbal replacement and hal effect pots.

also got the hal pot kit for my thrustmaster elite rudders.

Awesome. Expensive.. but.. awesome.

Roughly how much is the U2NXT gimbal replacement and hall kit?

[ATAG_Doc]

its more immersive and smoother. This is my solution, not very stylish, but cheap and easy built up
http://www7.pic-upload.de/thumb/26.04.11/23smhbm8xc6.jpg (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-9733934/DSCF1455.jpg.html)

Aww man that's looking really nice. I like it. I am attempting something like this.

[Jotaele]

This is my g940 mod (i call it g940L :P).I will write a complete description in simhq soon, when i got time.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5150/5682249266_d643252579_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62452085@N06/5682249266/)
IMG_7196 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62452085@N06/5682249266/) por Pepeluilly (http://www.flickr.com/people/62452085@N06/), en Flickr

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5062/5681681729_a92ce97414_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62452085@N06/5681681729/)
IMG_7194 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/62452085@N06/5681681729/) por Pepeluilly (http://www.flickr.com/people/62452085@N06/), en Flickr

Still WIP ,but it's working like a charm.

[jimbop]

This is my mod.I will write a complete review in simhq soon, when i got time.

Its working like a charm.

Looks good, can you post here when you've done your simhq article?

[Sokol1]

Roughly how much is the U2NXT gimbal replacement and hall kit?

If I remember correctly, above 500/600$.

Contact this guy: http://www.cubpilotshangar.net/

Sokol1

[Jotaele]

Looks good, can you post here when you've done your simhq article?

Sure jim! In the meantime, you can visit the flicker gallery i have created to the fotos.Just click the fotos ( i guess , im new at flicker).

[jimbop]

If I remember correctly, above 500/600$.

Contact this guy: http://www.cubpilotshangar.net/

Sokol1

Yes, I'm aware of the sites but thanks Sokol1. If that much, why not just buy the warthog? SimHQ review at least places the warthog in front of the U2NXT Cougar at http://www.simhq.com/_technology3/technology_174b.html (http://www.simhq.com/_technology3/technology_174a.html):

"The stick feels superb; it goes where you want it, when you want it. I have a Cougar with U2 NXT gimbals (considered a very good Cougar gimbal mod for accurate and light stick forces) with which to compare the HOTAS Warthog (see a description of the U2 NXT mod here). The HOTAS Warthog feels much better than the NXT Cougar and is much smoother mechanically. The HOTAS Warthog requires slightly more force to move away from center, but the required force stays constant throughout the range of the stick’s motion. The NXT Cougar, on the other hand, starts out with very light stick forces when moving away from center, and then the forces increase at the more extreme travel because the Cougar’s rubber boot stretches. The NXT Cougar tends to oscillate about the joystick center point due to its engineering design and its light springs. The HOTAS Warthog’s coil spring design prevents that from happening, as shown in the video below. The coil spring design also means that there is absolutely no transition from the X to the Y axis and vice versa. Overall the HOTAS Warthog stick feels much better than the NXT Cougar, and the NXT Cougar is already a massive leap over the stock Cougar gimbals. Thrustmaster has made a huge improvement with the HOTAS Warthog’s joystick design."

[Widowmaker214]

jimbop,

Yeah, 600ish is about what I spent.

Why?
For one, I have two sets of them. I also have two sets of rudders. That plug into them.

The warthog IS cool. And I actually plan to get one, But honestly I prefer the layout of the cougar throttle, buttons and rotaries.

I'll snatch up a warthog , but I like my cougar.

[JumpingHubert]

i had a nice finding for do it yourself hall sensor:
http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/2950373/Re_Converting_Stick_to_Hall_Se.html
or this variant:
http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3225807/1.html

here for example you can buy these hall sensors:
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-x-A1302-Ratiometer-Hall-Effect-Sensors-/170615429963?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b978db4b

You only need to fix 2 neodym magnets to the axis and place the sensor in front of the magnets in the right way (look first link).

I ordered 5 of the sensors (x-y-throttle-pedals) and neodym from ebay http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200537868229 . Next days I will give it a try!

8,80 Euro for 5 hall sensors :)

Little tip for hotas cougar owners and the problem of too strong springs: wear out the springs with two wrenches a little bit. In combination with a joystick-extension its now very very smooth without transition between the axis.

[AlleyViper]

As you currently have no time, I'm yet to put my hands on CoD and put my Über Cougar with GP Simped Vario Pros to work (collecting dust for >3 years :|). There's also a very professional kit alternative to HAL+U2NXT, FSSB kits:

http://www.realsimulator.com/html/fssb.html

Despite a less than natural non moving stick for prop planes, it's very precise and it should be very useful in a desk setup with stick and throttle on your sides, like with the original F16 stick that is also force actuated. Just pair this with Simped F16, or add the optional toe tip F16 pedal brakes to the Vario Pros (as these have more travel) for the full experience on jet sims.

[julian265]

Thanks - I've just been thinking about using a U-joint or similar for building a stick and now I know I'm not crazy... A car U-joint seems a bit excessive though? What about a tie rod end or something?

Is that yours in the link?

Yes, that's my stick.

There's no such thing as excessive when it comes to human input devices! ;)
Also my stick uses the weight (inertia) to give it a more realistic feel.

People have also used motorbike u-joints, which are smaller but can still retain the hollow cross-piece / spider. You might also check out steering u-joints, although they won't have the axis holes, but the metal might be soft enough to drill and tap, unlike u-joint's cross-piece.

IIRC all the completely custom built gimbals are larger than these u-joints, but of course they are made to perfectly suit the base, grip and sensors.

A tie rod end's movement isn't separated nicely into two axes (also it can rotate in the Z axis), so you'd find it harder to measure the X and Y rotation with sensors, whereas a u-joint has done it already. However, there are three axis sensors that can deal witht this method.

[JumpingHubert]

@julian
i´ve overlook your brilliant solution with the u-joint. Wow!

[julian265]

@julian
i´ve overlook your brilliant solution with the u-joint. Wow!

Thanks. It's not just mine - there are a few around.

[jimbop]

jimbop,

Yeah, 600ish is about what I spent.

Why?
For one, I have two sets of them. I also have two sets of rudders. That plug into them.

The warthog IS cool. And I actually plan to get one, But honestly I prefer the layout of the cougar throttle, buttons and rotaries.

I'll snatch up a warthog , but I like my cougar.

Good reasons!

[jimbop]

Yes, that's my stick.

There's no such thing as excessive when it comes to human input devices! ;)
Also my stick uses the weight (inertia) to give it a more realistic feel.

People have also used motorbike u-joints, which are smaller but can still retain the hollow cross-piece / spider. You might also check out steering u-joints, although they won't have the axis holes, but the metal might be soft enough to drill and tap, unlike u-joint's cross-piece.

IIRC all the completely custom built gimbals are larger than these u-joints, but of course they are made to perfectly suit the base, grip and sensors.

A tie rod end's movement isn't separated nicely into two axes (also it can rotate in the Z axis), so you'd find it harder to measure the X and Y rotation with sensors, whereas a u-joint has done it already. However, there are three axis sensors that can deal witht this method.

Thanks julian265, interesting stuff. How do you find the transition between axes? Is there resistance which favours a particular axis when you gently move diagonally from the centre? Difficult to explain what I mean...

[JumpingHubert]

not perfect centered but better as nothing http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/568579-simpit-flight-sim-cockpit-case-14.html

[julian265]

Thanks julian265, interesting stuff. How do you find the transition between axes? Is there resistance which favours a particular axis when you gently move diagonally from the centre? Difficult to explain what I mean...

I know exactly what you mean - I noticed it very much with my CH flightstick pro (although I quite liked it that way).

I see it as the static friction exceeding the dynamic friction in the bearings (as is normal), so an axis takes more effort to get moving than to keep moving, which makes the stick feel like it prefers to travel along one axis rather than at small diagonal angles.

I can feel this tendency in my uni-joint stick a bit, although I have my bearings adjusted fairly tight so that it can hold it's position (I never bothered with centering springs) and provide more resistance. See the attached image, taken from the JoyTest2 program. If the tendency was stronger, you'd see straighter lines more aligned with the axes.

If you want to avoid the axis-hugging tendency, adjust the bearing cups to get the desired (lack of) friction. Uni-joints use roller bearings, so you should be able to pretty much remove the tendency. Also, use thin or no oil in the bearings. You'll probably need something to keep the stick centered, such as springs if you do it this way.

[Sokol1]

A squad mate DIY HOTAS with U-Joint gimbal per Julian .PDF.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2095/5694208623_f83a917107_z.jpg
http://www.gavca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=18154

USB Controller L.Bodnar BU0836, Allegro A1321EUAT HALL sensor in X, Y, thottle1, 2 and rudder, slide trim's with pots.

http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/5463/conj001.jpg
No disassemble U-join need - in this pictures HALL not adjusted (too far from magnet).

No springs, use homemade damper with silicone as fluid:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=za5ussZdWbU&feature=player_embedded

Grip made in fiberglass, using a wooden model:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/60023582@N02/sets/72157626196097065/detail/

Sokol1

[jimbop]

Very helpful, thanks Sokol. I'm now working on a custom stick using one of Leo Bodnar's BU0836X boards and an old quad bike uni joint. Will update when I'm a bit further along - taking longer than I expected due to life getting in the way!

[jimbop]

I know that BU0836X has 32 buttons plus hat available (yeah, should be enough I know) but has anyone used something like autohotkey to map the output of this board to keystrokes? That way you could assign a couple of the digital inputs to Control and Shift and use double-wired combinations to create even more buttons or switches. Then you would map the keystrokes in CoD.

[Sokol1]

I know that BU0836X has 32 buttons plus hat available (yeah, should be enough I know) but has anyone used something like autohotkey to map the output of this board to keystrokes? That way you could assign a couple of the digital inputs to Control and Shift and use double-wired combinations to create even more buttons or switches. Then you would map the keystrokes in CoD.

Yes, you can use Autohotkey(advanced macros), or SVMapper (allow profiles), Joytokey (allow 16 modes), Xpader (payware)... to program BU0836 (or another USB Controller) buttons as keystrokes.

BTW - To tune axis range, set deadband, response curves, use DView or DXTweak2.

Sokol1

[jimbop]

Great - axis tuning was my next question!

[VO101_Tom]

My squad-mate (VO101_MMaister) made KG-13 stick to his Cougar joystick. If I would have time to rasp this much ... :rolleyes::cool:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/22174211@N02/5534453281/

[JumpingHubert]

great custom stick, tom. Looks like original.

my hall sensor chips from a taiwan ebay shop arrived a week ago. Adjusted them with hotglue in ten minutes. Works perfectly!

made it with this configuration http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=69785

[jimbop]

The X52 Pro has been relegated to the cupboard since I’ve now finished my custom u-joint stick (except for future modifications, of course!) It is a standard universal joint arrangement with Neodymium cube magnets and hall sensors although the centering mechanism is, perhaps, a little unusual in that it is based on magnetic repulsion. If you have seen this done elsewhere please let me know since I would like to link to it.

From Sokol:
- http://www.sukhoi.ru/forum/showthread.php?t=59583
- http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?hl=pt-BR&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.com.br&sl=ru&tl=en&twu=1&u=http://www.sukhoi.ru/forum/showthread.php%3Ft%3D59583%26p%3D1625474%26viewful l%3D1&usg=ALkJrhgcgdIZADH_HKBMtmA2gZ6Vy3qyWA#post1625474
- http://www.sukhoi.ru/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=135284&d=1306861313

I decided on magnetic centering since I do not like the friction of a spring. I did not want to tighten the bearings to stop the stick falling over since I like movement to be as unrestricted as possible for fine control in the centre. Magnetic repulsion centering allows for frictionless movement (apart from the u-joint itself) with resistance that is almost zero in the centre but increases markedly toward the edge. The magnets were bought from http://www.aussiemagnets.com.au.

Edit: Note that this is a relatively low force centering mechanism especially when compared to something like 310_Obluda's setup below. It centers the stick fine but does not provide kilograms of resistance.

You can click on the photos for larger versions on Flickr.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5073/5862572079_9f87e7e55e_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61319592@N06/5862572079/)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3230/5862588481_f13fcea70c_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61319592@N06/5862588481/)


Stick construction:

1. Bought a used u-joint from a quad bike (a little smaller than a car u-joint) and knocked out the spider.
2. Stripped and regreased the needle bearings and drilled out the bearing cups to accommodate a 1/4" bolt.
3. Reassembled but only loosely tightened the bearing cups so the movement is extremely loose.
4. Glued (araldite) some cut-down 1/4“ bolts into the spider as pictured below. These provide the platforms for the two axis cube magnets (10x10x10mm N42 Neodymium) which I also glued in place.
5. Reduced the play of the stick by judicious use of some Selleys 'Knead-It Steel' metal epoxy (click here (http://www.selleys.com.au/putty/epoxy/knead-it-steel)) and thin gal plate strips. I chose this method since it is easier to make slight adjustments with the epoxy putty than when welding.
6. Aligned the axis magnets as described (thanks very much for the guide) and added the hall sensors. These were two old Allegro UGN3503UA although the newer Allegro A1321EUA-T could be better.
7. Hooked the axes up to one of Leo Bodnar’s BU0836X cards which I will also use for the control box I am building.
8. Reversed the inevitably backwards hall sensor on the x-axis!
9. Replaced the circuit board in an old Logitech Extreme 3D Pro stick with a custom circuit (a few extra buttons) and used this for the handle.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5316/5863119988_7d79b34c86_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61319592@N06/5863119988/)

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5115/5863120438_e3d292ebf8_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61319592@N06/5863120438/)

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5314/5863120802_4c5c8a2a24_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61319592@N06/5863120802/)


Centering mechanism construction:

Materials were a galvanised steel plate as a base for the stick, 100 mm square tubing and twenty 20x20x5mm N42 Neodymium magnets with 9.2 kg pull. These could be stronger if you want more resistance but N42s are already really challenging to place correctly.

10. Welded the angle brackets (well, bits of cut tubing) on the 90 mm high square tubing. This section is a guard for the hall sensors and a platform for the centering ring to sit on.
11. Welded the 20 mm high square tubing at a 45 degree offset to the guard section.
12. Glued (araldite, clamps and a lot of bad language) the magnets in place, all with north facing to the centre (doesn’t matter which orientation of course as long as they are all the same).
13. Glued the magnets in place on the stick itself in an opposing polarity to the ring magnets (i.e. stick magnets repel ring magnets). Alignment is important: you want the magnets on the stick to be as close to the magnets on the ring as possible at full stick extension so they will actually be slightly higher on a centered stick than on the surround ring. Note that I had to make a platform for the magnets to sit correctly on the stick shaft. More epoxy plus 20 mm square tubing although I could have welded this.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2788/5863121012_bb1444be03_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61319592@N06/5863121012/)

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5117/5863121648_4326544851_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61319592@N06/5863121648/)

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5279/5862571405_6897edcb81_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61319592@N06/5862571405/)


Assembly:

14. Drilled out the holes in the plate to accept both the stick and cage bolts.
15. Bolted the u-joint stick to the plate.
16. Slid the cage down over the stick and bolted it to the plate.
17. That’s it. I have the stick attached to my chair using more square steel tubing of two diameters which slide into each other.

Tips:

If anyone wants to try this design here are a few tips I learnt the hard way:
- Attached the magnets last! These strong magnets attract steel shavings or filings like you wouldn’t believe and are really difficult to clean up.
- You will need to glue the magnets in place over a couple of days since placing adjacent magnets is pretty tricky. Use clamps (plastic) to hold them in place if need be.
- After trial and error I made the bolt holes used to attach the cage to the plate significantly larger than the bolts since I needed some fine position adjustment to get the stick to sit dead centre.
- Sliding the cage down over the stick is difficult since the magnets on the cage ring attract the stick shaft. Best to wrap the shaft in something thick to reduce the attractive force (I used a piece of drilled out wood).
- You need an awful lot of force to push the bearings from the spider. The good news is that the cups are strenthened steel so you are unlikely to damage them with a little ‘encouragement’.
- You’ll notice that I added some extra 10x10x2.5mm magnets on the stick (see the photo). These just increase the resistance a little.

I am really pleased with the outcome. The loose centre is just great for fine adjustments when lining someone up but you don’t lose out by not having centering. I had decreased the strength of the X52 Pro spring by cable ties but the effect is nowhere near as good as this since the spring tension increases rapidly at a particular point. I will, no doubt, replace the stick handle at some point although I have to admit that the internal build quality of the Logitech is actually better than the X52 Pro.

Finally, apologies to anyone offended by my rubbish welding skills but this was my first attempt. My rudder pedals look much better since I was getting the hang of how to build up the weld joint but that's another story!

[recoilfx]

Wow Jimbop, that's a pretty awesome built.

I'd think I'll have to experiment with the magnet spring design some time.

Out of curiosity, how much force do you need to exert to move the stick? Light? Strong?

[jimbop]

Wow Jimbop, that's a pretty awesome built.

I'd think I'll have to experiment with the magnet spring design some time.

Out of curiosity, how much force do you need to exert to move the stick? Light? Strong?

Thanks recoilfx. Regarding force, virtually nothing in the centre but more towards the edge. Not as much as you might think though since the u-joint shaft provides a lot of leverage. I think the force could be customized by using different size or strength magnets.

[Sokol1]

Jimbob.

Very good work! Congratulations.

If you have seen this done elsewhere please let me know since I would like to link to it.

I see similar magnetic centering system is Sukhoi.ru a few weeks, the user say that made at 3 years and work fine.
http://www.sukhoi.ru/forum/showthread.php?t=59583

Your method is very easy to implement. I started to build a U-join gimbal (per Julian PDF), but without springs - time to implement your solution. :)

PS- Please, post this in SimHQ - Cockpit Builders forum.

Sokol1

[310_Obluda]

Guys, nice work over here. I like the DIY Sukhoi control grip. Very nice !!

Here something about my way of centering.

I generally like significant forces in controls. therefore solid steel springs are the only option at the moment.

This was my previous setup. I have changed than centerig of ailerons because of friction and to reduce overall size of system

http://hosting11.imagecross.com/image-hosting-th-43/3421IMG_9794.JPG (http://www.imagecross.com/11/image-hosting-view-43.php?id=3421IMG_9794.JPG) Click Image to Enlarge Image Hosting (http://www.imagecross.com/)

http://hosting11.imagecross.com/image-hosting-th-43/4996IMG_9797.JPG (http://www.imagecross.com/11/image-hosting-view-43.php?id=4996IMG_9797.JPG) Click Imag

Current setup look like this, but also this is only just last step before the next one. I have also hydraulic dampers for rudder. This is feature i generally highly recommend. Inside the dampers are again steel springs, which generates some 15kg of force on full pedall. full aileron is some 5kg, full elevator about 8kg I thing. It is nice to feel respond in controls even on very slight movements.
Long maneuver dogfight is sometimes hard work, but I am no girl and it gives some additional nice feeling and better control of aircraft. Yes, sometimes I have to pull with both hands....prefect :cool:

http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/5340/img5259w.th.jpg (http://img29.imageshack.us/i/img5259w.jpg/)


http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/724/img5264q.th.jpg (http://img163.imageshack.us/i/img5264q.jpg/)

http://img859.imageshack.us/img859/3664/img5394x.th.jpg (http://img859.imageshack.us/i/img5394x.jpg/)

If you want some more info, go ahead.
regards,

[jimbop]

...Here something about my way of centering.

I generally like significant forces in controls. therefore solid steel springs are the only option at the moment...

Wow - looks good, 310_Obluda. That's a nice way of transferring the force from aileron and elevator. Definitely the way to go if you want strong force. The magnetic method centers well but it is definitely not strong.

[jimbop]

310_Obluda, could you please explain the hydraulic dampening system you use? I think the spring is within the dampener?

[tf_neuro]

I have the CH Figherstick, which is a good stick but has the usual problem found in most gaming sticks: it's too loose. So I cut a couple of rubber rings, about 25mm thick, off an old bicycle tire tube, rolled the two rings up making two fairly strong 'rubber bands', which I used to reinforce the weak springs hosted in the stick's base.

It works pretty nice but the tube rubberbands dont last forever, they break after a couple of months of heavy usage. No big deal though, it takes 10 minutes to make 2 new springs off the same tube and replace the old ones.(one tube lasts years)

I made a couple of pics to help understand the concept, not really so great artistic value but it may be of help if I didnt explain well enough. Pics Here (http://fusionpack.net/bogus/sticktension.html)

[jimbop]

Anyone who has bothered reading this far might be interested in this thread which describes a way to increase the number of inputs (sort of) from a BU0386X card:

http://forum.1cpublishing.eu/showthread.php?t=24574

[albx]

Does anyone know what I should use to lubricate my joystick (X52 Pro)? I own it for several years and it is now rather squeeky.

sorry, old thread, but to answer you I use a candle wax, tried with silicon grease but after a couple of hours it squeezed again, now is just perfect. If you used any kind of grease, clean it, then apply a candle wax on the metal tube and you'll never have any problem again. ;-)