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#11
01-09-2010, 05:25 PM
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#12
01-09-2010, 07:12 PM
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#13
01-09-2010, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by KG26_Alpha
IL2 does have constant centering tension, with MSFFB2 I feel the this all the time... Quote:
 Quote:
mortar.ffe spring.ffe See how you get on
Last edited by KG26_Alpha; 01-09-2010 at 07:49 PM.
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#14
01-09-2010, 09:54 PM
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I use Modded Cougar.I can say that is very easy to get use the Forces and set up. I had G940 at 17 Dec and 20th went online.If you check the diagram below (no scientific and no technical ) you will see that after 2 days offline flying with G940, I was still the same bad pilot I use to be before!! http://games.alkar.net/games/il2/stat/pilot/1404/0/ I don't have CH products ,so I can't tell about Fighterstick. The stick shape maybe a problem for some guys because is thinner than Cougar and there is a hut,the ministick and 4 buttons on top panel.
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#15
01-09-2010, 10:22 PM
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Thanks, Swaty.
Even if I went for Cougar, I wouldn't modify it in any way. It's too expensive. But a question, what do you think about durability? Shall it last long enought to make it worth the price? Everyone heard of the sturdiness of the Cougar, Fighterstick and everything, and I guess their sucessors (Warthog and A-10 HOTAS) will have the same durability, but Logitech doesn't have a very good record on this matter when it comes to FFB sticks. This is turning some people away from the G940, and declining it without even giving it a chance. I don't know if you have played with it for enough time to give a final veredict, but from your first impression, does it seem sturdy?
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#16
01-09-2010, 11:26 PM
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Well,I really don't know...
Was my first experience with Logitech product.Looks good but you can never can tell. I didn't like the sound of motors while stand by,the more they work the less life time they may have. I guess, soon we will have more input from users they bought it and use it everyday. In my opinion if someone is happy with his current flight system should wait,but is a good solution for someone who needs now a flight system. Personally,I wouldn't switch Cougar+simped for G940 but if I would suggest it as an option to a buddy who starts IL-2 now. Is not cheap, but the price is close to any similar solution. For instance X52 Pro & Pro Flight Rudder Bundle costs 255-268 €,CH set about 300€ e.t.c.
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#17
01-10-2010, 06:53 AM
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G940 Analysis (Long and detailed for prospective buyers)
G940 Opinions after using daily for one week. Will write many small points without any organization or structure for maximum substance with minimum text. Focus on things that are not mentioned as much by others, and also comment on the controversial parts everyone talks about. Some abilities, functions, good points etc are not covered. It is a close analysis/opinion of what I thought of the product foremost, written from the perspective of how things, if any, could be improved. I'll try to pass this along to Logitech as they like hearing constructive feedback.
I have a CH Combat Stick from way back, and a CH Throttle from the same time period. Also a Logitech Extreme 3D Pro. I have not tried the other offerings except a bit in stores (unlugged). Read a lot about them however, and how they compare. Near the end there is some more flowing writing on the impressions as a whole, how it affected the flying, and the last bit contains some control setup suggestions. - I have large hands (Size "L" gloves). The stick and throttle fits well, size wise. The rudder pedals, despite being among the widest, if not the widest, of the available pedals from popular makers, are too close together compared to real aircraft. The pedals are adequately large. Recommendation to Logitech: Widen the spacing between the pedals. We have room under our desks, and the box can be repackaged. - Ergonomically, while the stick is 'just fine' to grip, the Logitech 3D PRO (non force feedback) with it's very organic, flowing lines and forward tilted design is superior for hand comfort. G940 stick feels and looks far more authentic however. The pedals can cut into one's lower heels a bit after a while and are really meant to be used with slippers or shoes. Recommendation to Logitech: Modify the lower lip of the pedals to make them rounded instead of rectangular, and add optional softeners or whatever to allow for sock or bare feet operation with greater comfort. - All buttons are different types of good quality plastic except the index finger trigger, which is made of metal. The buttons are more solid than average but most have a slight amount of looseness when touched but not pressed down. It is slight enough to be felt as 'good quality'. The throttle base buttons (8 of them) are completely solid and feel very chunky and great to press down or touch. Throttle buttons make a dampened sound while the rest make a plasticky 'click', and the metal two stage trigger first make a micro-switch click and then a dampened plastic click when pushed all the way to stage 2. Recommendation to Logitech: None necessary. - Stick has two hats - castle-type hat (DPAD) made of plastic lower, and a metal 'coolie' hat upper which is analogue with spring resistance (like a small joystick) and can also be pressed down like a button. It's completely silent. The lower is a castle hat which feels solid and is noiseless. The top joystick (mini-joystick) hat requires grip change to move your thumb high enough to manipulate it, and it's tricky to apply enough force with your thumb to click it down. The lower hat can be accurately manipulated but grip must be altered slightly to reach it. Recommendation to Logitech: Relocate the 'mini joystick' functionality from top of stick to one of the throttle hats. The top mini-joystick coolie hat is the hardest to reach of the four hats, and is mounted on an already moving, most critical part of the controller, which is also unstable due to force feedback. This is the worst placement of the four hats it could be placed on and it is the least useful there. - Throttle has two hats. Again a metal coolie hat and a plastic castle (DPAD) hat. Both are digital type. Unlike the stick hats, they have some loose play in the middle (when touching but not trying to push them) and don't feel entirely solid. They also make sounds when pressed, unlike the stick hats. Easily go into 'diagonal' positions (between up and left for example), even inadvertedly. They are easy to reach and manipulate with thumb from an ergonomic standpoint. Resistance is too light for general use and when trying to find them with your thumb in anticipation of needing to press them, it happens easily that you push them in a direction unintentionally. Care must be taken in the heat of the moment, and in dogfights it may not be suitable to assign important system functions to them. My CH Combat Stick had a bunch of hats that were far more solid (and loud) and would never be set off by accident, and I preferred that. G940 hat setup with very light, fully directional with ease in any direction is exactly the way one would want hats to be when bound to snap views in a sim, as the view will return to forward normal as soon as the hat is not pulled, and a momentary accidental touch makes no difference. Recommendation to Logitech: If the mini-joystick hat from stick moved here, that serves well for looking around purposes. The other hat should be tightened, resistance added and forgo the ease of diagonal movement. - The throttle has four buttons mounted on the grip itself. Two on the back, for different parts of the index finger, which are both easy to reach and press regardless of position. Two for the thumb on the side, of which the ease of pressing depends highly on your grip - one can say that there are two ways to hold the throttle, one is 'wrapped' around it similar to when it's pushed all the way forward, in which case the buttons get closer to the cup of your hand, and the thumb 'overshoots' the two thumb buttons and comes to rest almost perfectly on the upper DPAD hat - pressing either thumb button then requires one to retract the hand (so that the back buttons are no longer in position) so the thumb aligns with the buttons - the thumb cannot bend inwards and back enough to press the buttons, which are at the base of the thumb. It's 'kind of' possible to use the mid joint of the thumb to press them, but it does not feel natural or ergonomical. If the throttle handle is pulled back (low setting) the palm of the hand no longer touches the grip, only the front fingers rest on it, and the thumb can then rather easily reach the buttons. These issues are not significant, and one often moves the hand position on the throttle when flying, finding a button or hat is very fast and easy. Yet for critical instant reachable functions, the index finger buttons on the back are the way to go (say, radio transmit button, weapons, zoom etc). Recommendation to Logitech: None necessary. - The stick has four buttons on the top part, on either side of the two hats. The lower row can be reached without changing the grip (the right one, barely), with the left thumb button being painted red, and I use it for cannons. Took some getting used to, but I like the idea of having setups similar to the pilots and planes of the 30's and 40's. The two top ones are impossible to use as weapons if maneuvering, one cannot reach them without changing the grip significantly. The lower left-mid stick thumb button, index finger dual stage trigger and the pinky button are all instantly pressable. Recommendation to Logitech: None necessary. - There is adjustable resistance on the throttle through a rotator wheel underneath it. The bad part is that to get medium (what I was looking for) resistance one has to turn the wheel with great force which was painful for my hands. Recommendation to Logitech: More resistance possible with less resistance in the wheel underneath. Possibly switch to hex wrench or other tool-required adjustment method instead of hand turned plastic wheel. - There are two indents (notches) in the travel near the minimum and maximum, called afterburner detents by some. These are only barely noticable, the point being too soft and vague when moving the throttle towards max power. Oddly they are more proper noticable when coming down from max power (moving in the other direction over the same notch, which is not as helpful. In general they are not noticed under normal operation and they make a slight strange noise when passing over them, on this high tension I set it to. Recommendation to Logitech: Improve or remove throttle indents, for now they do not work in a useful way. - The throttle feels meaty and it is a great feeling to fly with one's hand on it. I found myself making a lot of adjustments without even thinking, and taxiing on the landing strip has never been so fun. It has a slightly hollow feel, both from the resistance to movement and the hollow acoustics (sounds) eminating from inside it when skin rubs against it, pressing buttons or those slight sounds made when passing over the indents in the travel. Compared to my CH Throttle it feels far better. But for proper feel, one needs great sealed headphones (I have) and to remove the HUDlog in IL-2 so that you don't see those % of power when flying, which would otherwise completely remind you that you're not in a plane and your throttle is not mechanically linked to anything. Recommendation to Logitech: Reduce hollow acoustics. I am not a real engineer, but possibly rubberize parts, add cheap iron weights attached to different interior surfaces to absorb vibrations and add weight, or try to fill the interior hollow compartments with solid blocks of cheap plastic or other material. - Trim wheels, there's five of them. Two on throttle, three on stick. People complained about not feeling the 'center' which I can relate to in some situations, but I do not consider this an issue. My issue is that they have very light resistance, especially the wheel on the back of the throttle, so any accidental touch can lead to them being moved. This has so far not been a problem on the throttle in IL-2, and I do not use the three trims on the stick for trimming (use the knob for volume control! Best thing ever). Recommendation to Logitech: Add more resistance to wheel movement. - The trim wheels on the joystick base are unergonomic to use for trimming when flying, because they are intended to be used with your throtte (left) hand. If people fly with the controllers on a desk and sit on an office chair, it works well, but mine are on my left and right side respectively. It takes quite some reaching to get the left hand over to the right side while still gripping and keeping the stick centered in flight. Of course one can let go of the stick and use the right hand, but the stick does not center when not gripped so it is a difficult way to trim. Recommendation to Logitech: Trim wheel relocation to the throttle, offset to preferably the left of center in a longitudinal row, with the base slightly widened there to avoid inadverted trimming by brushing with the lower arm. They would act more like real trims or controls in any aircraft in this position, also when used for non-trim functions. - The eight base buttons on the throttle base, are awesome! They shine very clearly in different colors, and one can customize their text via inserting a small piece of paper with the function printed on it. They also feel good, quality and meaty to touch and to press. I cannot wait to see them utilized fully for different systems and functions in simulators. I am aware that others have mentioned that they are too uniformly mounted and similar due to this, making them harder to find by touch, and I can relate to this. But I can also realize that they are not intended as a "HOTAS, eyes on screen" operation. As they are marked and have different lights, taking eyes off screen to glance at them is how it is done, and this is made simple and fun due to the lights and markings. Rearranging the buttons could work, but if the buttons change shape in any way, the cost would go up and customization also more difficult. There have been complaints of accidental button presses by having one's lower arm resting over the buttons. This critique is justified. Especially if mounted on a desk, where the throttle is very high in relation to the body, with the arm coming in from 'below'. Logitech has partly anticipated this issue in their industrial design. The entire throttle base surface is sloped about 15 degrees towards the user. The buttons have raised seperator indents between them, minimally taller height than the buttons. It is a good idea, but it does not adequately protect the buttons from being pressed. The buttons provide a nice amount of resistance before they are pressed, but the travel is only about two millimeters. To avoid this the best way is to lower the throttle and put it more back in relation to a typical desk. Recommendation to Logitech: Increase slope by double or triple. Mount buttons slightly closer to each other on the X-axis and lower their mounting by a few millimeters. They are currently mounted on a raised plate for the sake of appearance, perhaps something can be done with this too. If mounted closer together, the base top widened a bit, the issue would be lowered and the trim wheels from joystick could fit there longitudinally as well, without risk of brushing either. - The rudder pedals have a knob for adjustable resistance. Even when I pulled it as hard as I could, it was not much. They have a set level of self-centering, but this does not increase by adding resistance, rather the opposite - self-centering spring force is too weak to overcome the friction of added resistance to even return to center if one takes the feet off them, and the centering force is much harder to feel when the friction in the movement is higher. I had a hard time flying due to this initially, until I lowered the tension to make them much lighter in resistance (try setting them a bit looser than the point where they center themselves without any outside force) - only then did they work properly. Recommendation to Logitech: Increase self-centering force much. Increase possible resistance. Rework resistance adding mechanism to not require so insanely much force to turn it up. - The rudder pedals are pretty much noiseless in operation except that they make a 'clack' sound when reaching the end of the travel in both directions. This can be loud when on a floor or against a wall, and I am going to have to try to modify mine somehow to lower this noise, lest I bother or wake up others - the vibration is transmitted straight into the floor/wall. Recommendation to Logitech: Add rubberized stops to the end of the travels, or better ones if they are there already. - Rudder pedals in general are fairly 'solid' and I don't think they will break. There's some flex in the metal pedals mounting that can be noticed mainly by looking at it when moving the feet around. It is small and does not interfere with operation in any way. Some have reported it as super solid, some said they seem 'flimsy'. The reality is somewhere in between. Can't feel it when feet are on them and using them like rudders, but can see it, especially with forces applied not in the center of the pedals. Uses hardcore plastic assembly which has a little bit of plastic deformity to them (non plasticity deformation is when deformations are permanent, if I'm not mistaken). They tip forward, one axis each, as wheel brakes. This is hard to use if the legs come in angled too far down, like in my case when I sit in a lower than usual chair. I have made them usable again by angling the pedals upwards against the wall a bit. - The force feedback operation is pretty much noiseless when dealing with spring forces (pulling or resisting movement). Any kind of vibration or other effect can be loud however, so one must take care to not have too much when others can be bothered by noise. On a reasonable setting that feels mostly adequate, it is okay, but I would have liked even quieter, or to be able to crank it up even more without the added noise. Recommendation to Logitech: Attempt to lower the sound of the vibrational effects. - Moving the stick with no resistance (either due to setting, the game situation or unplugged power) there's no resistance at all, it's silky smooth. When there is resistance and it pulls at you suddenly, it's also silky smooth. It's when you are pulling in a controlled way against forces resisting you that a notchy resistance can be felt. If one looks at the stick, one can see that one moves it a few millimeters at a time, as if between the cogs inside, as you pull it more and more in a direction. Others have described this as a 'gravely' feel. Recommendation to Logitech: A smoother resistance without notchiness of any kind is desired - When not touching the stick, it can make hard-drive similar sounds that continue until you touch it a few times so it ends up in a position where it doesn't try to resist/adjust the position slightly. This is due to the motors rapidly changing direction with low force output. This is of course, a nusiance. Recommendation to Logitech: Firmware upgrade to reduce this behaviour. Option to just shut off all self centering when not holding it would be a welcomed option. - The force feedback the stick is capable of is impressive. It's moderately strong (I have nothing to compare to except force feedback wheels, like my G25) although I have no problems overcoming it. It is able to change directions and responds extremely quickly to anything. In the stick test screen one can try out all kinds of wacky things it's capable of. Clearly the simulators on the market that I play, at least, don't make use of all this functionality. When it keeps applying swift opposite forces it will positively, always, yank your hand around with it, which is impressive and fun. The buffeting/shake of IL-2 is expertly fun. I fly differently now than before, respect the plane much more, don't push it as hard. It moves about so much as you push near stall, or you are traveling a wee-bit too fast in a dive  that I get honestly nervous about how hard I push the airframe to it's limits. The shake can absolutely move your aim and/or attempted precision flying off course a bit, which I find immensely gratifying. People who play in a way to have the equipment that gives them the most advantages (no matter how unreal) over their opponents will not appreciate it. I fly for immersion however, and I love it.The resistance to movement when flying faster or slower can be felt noticably, especially in the 'lower' registry. It's just about completely limp at around 130Km/h and progresses to most of it's full force by 300-350km/h, possibly depending on the plane. Above that the differences are not easily felt, if at all. This is due to IL-2, which is programmed to respond with this limited range (the old sticks of the day weren't exactly the strongest with the longest throw - for users to feel a difference it had to be concentrated in a certain range). The 'sloppy center' people talk about for IL-2 is real, and is due to IL-2's use of force feedback, again from shorter throw old sticks of the day. This has a largely negative effect in that there's a 'wall of force' that you suddenly feel when moving off center enough, which instinctively feels like the end of the movement range of a spring joystick. One has to pull beyond this wall to 'get into' the range of force feedback resistance, which is not a natural or progressive feeling. The stick is capable of fairly hardcore center force (try only self-centering set to 150% with the rest off to see what I mean) where only a square CM or a bit more in the middle is devoid of immediate resistance - no doubt very realistic, but alas, IL-2's tolerances are set too low. If it was properly set up, the speed-wind-resistance on controls would be far more noticable, and there would be a linear smooth resistance from the beginning of the motion making everything easier, more realistic, predictable, smooth etc. As such, IL-2, while being among the best force feedback user currently, is not in any way an indicator of what this stick could be like when flying when set up right. An afterthought - while all effects are extremely fast to start, even the rotational vibration devices inside, some can take just a moment to 'wind down'. When shooting cannons in IL-2 it starts directly and chugs along, but when I stop shooting it can lag just a little bit. This is for heavy slow RPM effects - for MG's at high RPM I did not notice. Recommendation to Logitech: Apply more pressure on developers to patch in better force feedback in older titles. Also develop own workarounds that can be makeshift solutions if such a thing is possible at all. I have read others' suggestions and thought about it myself, and the issue is undoubtedly more complicated for Logitech than we appreciate. There's no way for the stick to know how it should behave beyond what IL-2 tells it (i.e. the center slop play - it wouldn't know what to do. It can of course be set to add self-centering when in the slop zone, but it would not know when to increase this or decrease this as the plane speeds up or slows down. When stalling out the center would still try to center, and when moved beyond a point it would become completely limp. This is why that is not such a great solution). - A serius bug: whenever reversing direction of any of the non hall-sensor axises (unsure of the rudder), including the twin throttle and the trim wheels, the input in the games/dxTweak etc makes a jump on the scale. This has been documented by other users. For example, you are flying with throttle at 50%. You want to move it up to about 75% or therabout. As you move the throttle forward, it's completely accurate and smooth. You move it just a wee bit too far, though, perhaps at 76%. You try to move it back tiny bit to 75%. As soon as you start moving it back even the slightest, it jumps directly down to 72%. Reverse direction and move it forward again, it again jumps to 76%. To reach 75% exactly then one must be more than 4% away and come easing in from one direction only, stopping where intended. Every reversal of direction results in this. Even trim wheels. Recommendation to Logitech: Update the firmware ASAP. LogitechMark has confirmed this bug and that they are working on fixing it in the next software update. - The two throttle axises report strangely in the DxTweak tool. They don't move over the entire range, although this is not a problem in-game. However, the Logitech Profiler 4.08 is affected by this. I tried mapping zones to the throttles to use keyboard presses to control twin engined planes (i.e. move throttle at this position and it sends the button bound in IL-2 to switch to engine 1, and then a keypress to send the power setting). The result is that the own profiler also only recognizes what DxTweak sees, limited range of motion in the middle of the registry only (moves from about 25% to 75%). As such only some zones in the middle could be triggered and not at all in the correct physical throttle position. This is, undoubtedly, a bug. I don't know if it has been reported yet. Recommendation to Logitech: Squash this bug. Preferably the reporting in DxTweak too, as it makes me nervous. - The accuracy of the hall sensors is outright amazing. That, coupled with the force feedback and the rigidity of the stick, I'm flying on less curved stick input in IL-2 - the forces help and the accuracy tracks supremely. A good thing, no doubt. The other axises are pots, but seem nicely accurate as well, with the exception of the horrid bug mentioned above. Recommendations to Logitech: Everyone is worried about precision and durability. Don't let us down. I would go as far as recommend that a permanent solution be found in the ability for the user to easily open the chassis and replace a pot in a couple of minutes (not using welds, but snap on contacts), to ensure very long term durability. - The stick is very, very rigid. Having used a much sloppier 'twist' stick before this with a hollow feeling grip and slight flex, this is hardcore. It has absolutely no looseness in it's mounting of any kind in any direction, except little less than a millimeter the twist direction, barely percievable. Recommendations to Logitech: Keep up the good work. - The software used, Logitech Profiler, is okay. It is not advanced nor basic. I am using autohotkey to set things up just the way I want. - The stick with it's force feedback does not ever slide around or need something to help it stay put, unlike other sticks I have seen in videos on youtube. The footprint is pretty large and it has very grippy rubber pads in each corner. A testament to it, is that in order to get it as close as possible next to my chair on the right, it is set so that the lower left edge extends past the edge of a small serving table I have it on. It is relying on only three corners to keep it up. The rubber pads extend a bit underneath so to compensate for the fourth one not touching the table I put in a piece of a Q-tip to brace it level underneath. --------------- THOUGHTS The G940 has flaws, which do not ruin it and the experience. Flying with it took the experience forward a whole lot (took some time to get used to the rudders, that people fly with those things. I kept seeing it mentally as being a steering wheel, with my feet on it, thus to go left I'd try to rotate the axis left (i.e. right pedal forward, left back. Leading to right rudder input.)  Took a bit of practice. When I set the resistance lower it worked much better. Before then, when self centering was too weak due to higher resistance, I would often not even realize that the pedals were resting totally offset, which was frustrating. No problems now.The throttle close on the lower left, the stick on the right, the pedals, the feel of the grips, the great force feedback effects (Those that are implemented, and the not as well implemented ones) - it feels cockpit snug, authentic, downright scary with all the imposing buffeting, vibrations, getting near hits or hits by flak, enemy cannons and so on. It's an awesome feeling to be climbing up after someone in a zoom and feeling how it gets lighter and lighter. In planes that keep up their RPM on the propeller before, I could simply not see or feel it at all except looking at a speed indicator (don't need any HUD stuff now, I can use instruments and go on force resistance to tell me how fast I am). Landing and taking off is more difficult and very imposing. When landing, there's no resistance at all basically but there's nasty vibrations from the airframe from the turbulence around the flaps and the landing gear, and maybe the propeller if moving slow. You sure feel slow and in a dangerous position. I was surprised over how great the throttle really felt like to use in immersion and authenticity, and how much rudders added. Not much more functional than my G25 pedal setup, but the feeling is totally different. It feels like 'plane!'. The step up from G25 pedals as rudder, Saitek quadrant for throttle (not quite a hands on throttle) and a non FF joystick is a large one. Not as large as getting a TrackIR 5, headtracking so smooth and yet instantaneous and accurate, I join the crowd who say "How the hell did I not get this before? I cannot fly without it ever again", and recommend getting that before these things. For the rest, this is probably the best, despite the flaws, offering available. Newer titles with proper FF support and using the colored buttons should extend it's superiority except for fly by wire type jet planes, and for those competitive types of people who care about winning rather than immersion flying online. -------------- VIEW SETUP ADVICE (With headtracking). Many people probably use the dual stage trigger in the following way, which is easiest: Stage 1 = MG. Stage 2 = MG + Cannons. I don't, I think that is gamey and unrealistic. I put cannons (weapon 2) to the thumb trigger on the upper left side, where it belongs, more similar to the KG-11 to 13 sticks used by the luftwaffe etc. Also using a TrackIR setup, I went through many types of setups until I found the most cunning convinient ones. I hope this can inspire to improve view controls efficiency and simplicity. Parts of it would work on other sticks as well: Dual stage trigger: Half press (when held) = FOV 55. About the same as real field of view would be through the monitor of my size and the distance I sit from it. This means objects appear as large and far away as they would in real life. This is for observation and for all my gunnery work. It helps a lot. Since the index finger is always on this trigger, I can go to this midway fov at any moment instantly for observation, for when about to take a shot at a bandit, or when already shooting. Releasing the trigger resets to WIDE FOV (the default in this setup). OPTIONAL: if one has worse headtracking gear, perhaps a home made FreeTrack with 6DoF, or just flying a plane where it's very hard to bend to see the gunsight, I have the option to set it so that the half-trigger also sets into gunsight position (you know, Shift F1), so that whenever one is about to shoot, gunsights are always aligned. Useful for badly set up planes like the Me-262 where one cannot possibly bend down to the gunsight in 6DoF mode. And again, releasing the half-trigger resumes normal cockpit view. I find I don't need this most of the time due to the accuracy of the TiR5. Autohotkey is required to make FOV return to wide when releasing the button. Full press = fire MG (still in FOV 55). Upper red trigger button = Cannons (weapon 2). Mid-stick left-thumb button (the thumb normally rests over this) = center TrackIR (used often due to real-view translation issues and so on. Instant accessability helps situational awareness and gunnery). Pinky button (pinky is always in contact with it) = Maximum zoom and 'precision' (smoothing) mode of the headtracking, as long as it is being held. Get instant detail views of anything in the surroundings, for close up view of some instrument or for some long range shooting work (it overrides the half-trigger FOV). Releasing puts back into normal mode, wide FOV. Autohotkey is required to make the fov return to wide when releasing the button, and even more necessary to make it override the FOV of the half-trigger above and not get wonky behaviour. And that's it. There's three levels of FOV for details, for general true perspective and gunnery, and for wide view awareness. In real life, our eyes do all three at the same time even better than this game, due to the limitations of the pixel size and the monitor only taking up, as in my case, 55 degrees of my field of view. Three levels of fovs is enough to cover these three adequately. The instant availability and the functionality of ALWAYS resetting to wide fov makes it as simple as need be to regain situlational awareness when in a wild dogfight (I recall how things were like before, especially before the trackIR, but even after, with zoom levels and all that). The best part is, so much functionality in just two buttons. I felt like the G940 dual stage trigger was a waste if I didn't use both buttons when set up realistically, but this solved it perfectly. I have the big knob (Trim 3) on the stick base set up as my volume knob. Works just like you would imagine. Don't have to reach for the keyboard's volume shortcuts anymore. Autohotkey is necessary to bind an axis to the system volume. Even though twin throttles do not work in IL-2 yet, a quick way of getting around managing two engines and if they need seperate start (as dictated on some servers) is to bind one of the throttle hats, the lower one preferably, to select engine 1 when pulled up, engine 2 when down, and all engines when pushed forward. Operation is nearly as fast as with two throttles. This works on non-G940 setups too, of course. A button on the base of the stick is the MASTER ARM switch. It just toggles wether or not weapons can be fired/dropped when their buttons are pressed. Autohotkey is necessary for this behaviour (one programs a setting that is SAFE = ON or OFF, a button is bound to toggle this, and then one binds the stick buttons so that when pressed, they only press the right keys for firing stuff if the safety is set to OFF, otherwise nothing happens). I find that it's more necessary to be careful of weapons firing when having that half-trigger and the force feedback effects going about.
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#18
01-10-2010, 07:44 AM
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I wrote in detail in my long wall of text earlier here on page 2, which may help you understand the G940 in general better. Quote:
Can you imagine how it would be like to fly like that? Relative center, true forces acting, the trims.. the stick is more than capable of this, but we haven't gotten to try it out yet. Can't wait! Quote:
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#19
01-10-2010, 09:22 AM
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Wow MikkOwl!
Thanks for posting,I think this is a really helpful post!You said pretty much everything someone has to know to decide!
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Linear Mode
