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IL-2 Sturmovik: Cliffs of Dover Latest instalment in the acclaimed IL-2 Sturmovik series from award-winning developer Maddox Games. |
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#91
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Re: difference between V-Sync and frames per second. If you turn V-Sync off you will get the maximum frames per second your graphics card can manage, but when using a standard LCD monitor you'll have tearing all over the place as their refresh is usual fixed at 60Hz. When V-Sync is off the video card ignores synchronising with the monitor and just pumps out as many frame as it can handle.
So Oldschool is right in terms buying an AMD over an Intel especially if you have a standard LCD, but if you've want to have the best CPU / Video Card / Memory combination, you better make sure the rest of your hardware can match / cater for the performance, otherwise your wasting your money. To see your games at frame rates higher than 60Hz you'll need a 100Hz+ monitor to get the benefit. some thing like this ... http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=15266 Last edited by Codex; 04-07-2011 at 06:29 AM. |
#92
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I will never ever buy ASUS motherboards again after the screwup I've got from them with the 350 € ASUS Striker Extreme II motherboard, two year and a half after I've bought it, and still they have not solved the hang issues (the damn motherboard is simply locking up now and then, even if your comp just stays idle in desktop).
As it has a 3 years guarantee, I think I'll try to return in and get it exchanged with some other motherboard, one for the new Sandybridges ![]() Gigabytes UD4 is the same as UD5, while it costs with almost 100 € less: both motherboards will have their PCI express go down to 8x 8x with a 2 videocards SLI setup. I7 2600k is worth the extra price even if only for the extra 2 MB L3 cache (which is the difference between 2 MB vs 1.35 MB L3 cache per core). Plus that with MG working on distributing the workloads on more cores, you'll never know.. Also, extra FPS over 60 is not a waste: some have high refresh rate LCD's (like me I have the 120 Hz Samsung 3D one), or want to go with 3D or/and surround resolutions (on 3 monitors) plus that you are not buying a processor just for now, you are actually investing in future games too, as you'll use it for at least another year. 580/590 are a waste of money atm: the best buy would be a GTX 560i with 2 GB VRAM, for almost half of the price of the 580. To which you can add another in SLI at anytime, a combo which would easily beat the 580, and maybe even the 590 too, and all of that while spending less money. Last edited by adonys; 04-07-2011 at 08:25 AM. |
#93
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i5-2500K @ 4.9 GHz, Asus P8P67-B3, 8GB Adata DDR3 Ram, Powercolor 6950 @ 6970
Frames are nearly enough, but short freezes and stuttering are getting on my nervs! |
#94
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try this: make another display profile in your Windows 7 in which you turn Aero off (go with the classic one).
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#95
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Hi T}{OR, I have a B3 stepping board courtesy of the Intel Sandy Bridge recall, but don't know what B3 means. I assume it's better than the previous version, but does having B3 mean I can expect better performance in CoD?! Here's hoping
![]() Thanks, PPanPan
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Intel Core i7 2600 3.4 GHz | 1GB Gainward GTX 460 GS | Corsair 4GB XMS3 PC3-12800 1600MHz (1x4GB) | Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD3P B3 (Intel P67) | Windows 7 Home Premium 64 BIT | 600W PSU | 1 TB SATA-II HDD 7200 32MB | 22" Samsung T220 screen. |
#96
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I am using a rig I bought and built from scratch a month ago..
Intel 2500K @ 4.2 Gig ($219) MSI P67A-GD65 (Has OUTSTANDING "Auto Overclocking" feature.. can't rave about it enough) ($179) 8 Gig Corsair Vengence DDR3 1600 ($99) WD Caviar 7400 RPM $49.00 Samsung DVD R $20 FXF 6970 2 Gig VRAM $350 Cooler Master HAF 932 Case $139 (Has LARGE fans that make almost no noise) RaidMax RX 850 AE PS $119 (I Heard mixed reviews about the "Maker" but have seen good reviews on this particular PS and hasen't had an issue) Scythe SCMG-2100 Sleeve CPU Cooler $39 Big.. I mean BIG! But almost silent and keeps my CPU at 38' under load so how can you argue? So if you are short of cash you could get the Mobo, CPU, RAM and a new Power SUpply for about $650 US (Assuming prices are what they were a few weeks ago) Carry over your DVD/HDD or get new ones, they are alsmot free at this point.. The big expense will be the G Card.. It was 1/3rd of my purchase price. Also a word of advice.. if you are "saving up or trying to buy things a piece at a time, buy RAM whenever its cheap... everything else, and I mean everything will cost the same or less if you wait.. you are better off buying it all in a big lump when you are ready..
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MSI P67A-65D Intel i5 2500K @ 4.2 Gig 8 Gigs Corsair DDR3 1600 RAM XFX 6970 Video Card Win7 64 Bit Home Ed ATI 12.3 Driver Package WD Caviar 7600 RPM HDD ATI CCC at DEFAULT settings Last edited by JG14_Jagr; 04-08-2011 at 04:41 PM. |
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