Complex Engine Management / Oil on window ?

[Ivan Fooker]

I die trying to get to know how to deal with the motor management.
Each time i play this "junk' comes up to my window (watc hthe sreenshot).

I take care not to come over 30 000 Rpm, flying at 1.4 ata, managinf the rest with prop pitch.

My radiator is open and my oil cooler as well.
Nevertheless i always damage "junk" comes to my window.
Is it the oil?
How to avoid it ?
What temperature must be when in what range, what is the max ,what the minimum.

My engine is sometimes shaking. Dunno if it is the wind, although i dont think so.So what makes my engine shaking? I guess this has alls sth to with each other.
Would be great if someone could explain me the "whys" and "howtos"

Maybe a technical manual would have been more senseful to print instead a spit manual and a nose-rag.

[Redroach]

Switch on the damage reports in one of your info windows. Then you'll be able to see what's happening. My no.1 reason for oil spill like that is the oil seal(s) blowing due to oil temperature being too high. If you're encountering that as well, I'd suggest opening the relevant radiator(s).

[Ralith]

When the engine's shaking, try adjusting your mixture.

[Hellbender]

When the engine's shaking, try adjusting your mixture.

The 109 mixture settings are dichtome: 100% or 0% :grin: .

[whoarmongar]

Its my guess your running your mix to lean, As its a combat sim and your not having to save fuel run rich mix,

[Prop~Strike]

I take care not to come over 30 000 Rpm

Ya might wanna keep it under 30,000 rpm..... that's a touch much :-P

[Widow17]

not only check temps, check oilpressure as well. That might be the thing causing you trouble.

[robtek]

First when you see ata you are flying a german plane -> anything above 2500 rpm -> bad!!
Keep the oil-rad half open and the water-rad between half and full open.
Be aware that in the 109 the indicator for the water-rad doesn't shows its position, rather it shows if its opened, neutral or closing atm.
For the actual pos. of the water-rad watch for the pins on the wings.
Contrary to RL they are showing full when rad is open.
Forget everything about cem learned in il2-1946!!!!
The intend is to survive AND flying home!

[klem]

One of the main causes of 'vibration' is that the Merline engine modelling is off. It is constantly misfiring due to overmodelled negative G effect (the effect that cuts the engine when they used to push over into a nose dive). It is happening in level flight and/or slight turbulence. It is being looked into. You could turn off 'Headshake' for now to reduce the annoyance factor.

[kimosabi]

Consider 3000rpm as a WEP option only. Better stay below 2500rpm for the most part.

Open your rads man and keep an eye on temps.

[Ivan Fooker]

Thx for all ya input.
As some of your correctly noticed, i am atm flying planes of the "good ones";):rolleyes: .... means the B109E3.

Thus the mixture is atm no option,as i can run 0% or 100%.

Water Rad
For the actual pos. of the water-rad watch for the pins on the wings.
Could u or s.o. else plz take a screenshot to attachment plz...i ve no clue what you mean with that pin

Temperature
not only check temps, check oilpressure as well. That might be the thing causing you trouble.
Could some plz tell me where the max and minimum temperatures?

Oilpressure
not only check temps, check oilpressure as well
What is the average,minimum and maximum oilpressure?

[SQB]

Firstly, right next to the throttle, bump up the oil radiator to full (its a yellow knob)
Secondly, wind out the regular radiator (its on the right, you have to rotate the thingy)

If it still happens... well at least you've eliminated one option.

[jrg]

Hi Ivan, in the manual from the page 89 to the page 93 you will find some refferences about the 109.

Oil temperature should be kept between 30 to 75°C and could be as high as 95 during very short periods.

The water temp should be kept under 80°C, 105 can be maintened only for very short periods.

I fly almost exclusively the 109, I had troubles with the engine too, but now, just by checking the temps I don't face any problems.

The never exceed rpm is 3000, and the max takeoff power is 2450 rpm and 1.45 ATA (well 2400 or 2500 are fine), so you don't need to go to 3000 rpm to have more power. Don't forget to anticipate yours accelerations and decelerations to keep your rpm in the sweet powerband (2200 2500). Map keys for the oil rad and for the water rad (normally 5-6 7-8). As said before you have an indicator on your left wing for the water rad position, and you can watch the position of the yelow lever on your left for the oil radiator.

In a dive the procedure is to cut the throttle an to set the prop pitch to 09:30.

I'm sorry but I don't know what are the limits for oil pressure but IIRC you have some white small triangles (marks), normally the needle should stay between them.

Here is a good page for some refferences about the 109 (E-4 but i think it's ok): http://www.shockwaveproductions.com/store/solo/bf109/

Have fun.

[Derinahon]

Can anyone give similar advice for the Hurricane? Oil and water temps, plus optimum RPM and prop pitch? I'm just getting into CEM and I can't figure out how to keep the engine happy. At anything other than level flight I normally get black smoke and red flame pouring from the engine. I can adjust prop pitch and throttle to calm it, but I'm just guessing really!

With temperature effects my engine likely wouldn't last very long :)

[jrg]

I'm sorry I don't know so mutch about the hurricane, but you'll find infos from the page 85, go into C:\Program Files (x86)\il-2 sturmovik cliffs of dover\manual\

Remember that the hurricane is a gravity fed engine so negative G cut the fuel flow and make a rough engine, black smoke can be emitted when this happens.

[Derinahon]

Thanks, I've read that section of the manual but I was just after some advice regarding the black smoke scenario. I thought it was to do with mixture, but in the Hurricane you only have the lean setting for cruising so I'm not sure how to correct the black smoke/vibration when in combat for example.

[Ivan Fooker]

Thx a lot for ya patience and explains!
:grin:

Edit:
Your hints did the trick thx a lot.
One question remains to become a Pro Engineer....what is the the Oil/pressure clock supposed to do?
Means it is actually interesting only after taking shots, to control if any tubes got hit, and if i ve to get back home?

[jrg]

Let's have a quick look on oil pressure :D

If your engine is too hot, your oil pressure should drop (yes drop), if your engine is too cold your oil pressure should rise. So to influence your oil pressure you should manage the temp of the engine.

If the temperatures are normals a drop in the oil pressure mean probably a leak in the oil system (so probably a hit) or a lack of oil, but the sim hopefully don't simulate the need to replace oil before takeoff^^ or the oil pump is broken.
If the oil pressure rise (while temps are OK) then something is probably blocking a pipe in the system.

When the oil pressure is too low your engine is not correctly lubed (not sure of the term sorry) so wear increase and your engine may stop in a short time, when it's too high there is a risk of detonation and destruction of the oil system.

When the oil pressure drop sharply the best is to reduce throttle and fly with cruise settings or even shut down the engine because the temperature could rise very quickly until the engine catch fire.

On the BF i think the oil pressure gauge also indicate the fuel pressure (one of the needle is for oil the other for fuel pressure), as for oil pressure a drop indicate a leak.

So generally speaking a problem of oil or fuel pressure which can't be solved by managing the temperature of the engine is a really bad news and there is little to do but heading for home ASAP.

[Redroach]

well the last couple of posts were actually pretty helpful... thanks!

[Ivan Fooker]

Thx jrg!
That really became a helpful thread to me!
That few lines to the manual and i am sure less people would suffer under complex motor management.
Once again thx!

[reflected]

As soon as I turn on the engine temperature effects, my engine dies no matter what. I can't fly any of the Spitfires above 160-180 mph.

even if the oil and rad temps are ok. Not to mentino that as soon as I set the prop to fine pitch it overrevs the engine which dies. Inconcievable... :confused:

[tintifaxl]

One thing I notices: On your screen shot the prop pitch is all the way down, so the engines struggles at low rpm to drive the prop thus overheating it quickly.

[jrg]

here is a nice video about the overreving problem (it's beacause of the time needed for the blades to reach the new angle) : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psYL7thQj6M&playnext=1&list=PL33112BDB5C43E0E3
As tintifaxl said check that your mixture lever is on the rich position (the lean position is for high alt cruise)
Move the throttle very slowly to avoid overreving and keep the boost needle below +4.
Avoid negative G.

[Ivan Fooker]

Prop Pitch
As we already have a very interesdting thread here, would it be possible to sort the prop pitch out here?

In theoretics i would say the prop pitch is similar to a gear in a car.
But i still dint find an effective way to use it properly in a Bf109.
So could someone explain when should i why set the prop pitch to what position.
I read the manualö and the few line about the prop pitch ,nevertheless i am sure this can´t be all.

[BlackbusheFlyer]

It is like a gear change, capable of biting more air as the air thins with altitude. Typically you reduce prop speed shortly after takeoff in the climb, recommend bringing it back to around 2,600RPM. As you reach cruise altitude you can then bring it back to around 2,300-2,400. In combat I believe most pilots set their RPM to 2,600 prior to entering combat.. slaming it forward will mean that you run the risk of over-revving the prop in a combat dive.

When diving, keep an eye on your RPM, normal practice is to make sure you reduce your manifold pressure (or boost) even in an accelerated dive to manage the prop.

[jrg]

Hi Ivan, check this link: http://www.shockwaveproductions.com/store/solo/bf109/ scroll down the page to find the engine limitations characteristics (they're for the 109e-4 but ok for the E-3).


There is 3 kinds of designs: Fixed pitch propeller, constant speed propeller, and variable pitch propeller.

- In the first one the blades of the propeller have a fixed angle, so increasing speed or throttle increase RPM. (eg some spits, the Tiger Moth)

- The CSP: (eg: some spits)
With a constant speed propeller the CSU (constant speed unit) adjust the angle of the blades in order to keep a certain RPM, if your speed increase or decrease or if you change the throttle position, the blades angles will be automatically adjusted by the mechanism to keep the rpm at the determined speed (I simplify, if you want more explanations don't bother to ask). So for example if you set your rpm to 3000, the rpm will not change with your speed (simplified again^^).

- The VPP: (eg. the 109)
In a variable pitch propeller (yes the CSP is also a variable pitch prop, but here there is no CSU, I hope I'm not too confusing, tell me if needed. The bf109 uses a VPP) you adjust directly the angle of the blades, the rpm will stay constant only if your speed and the throttle settings are stable (and i think altitude too). If you accelerate, the rpm will increase, because the angle of the blades will not adjust itself, (imagine that you are blowing with differents strenghts onto a small windmill like the ones for children) so you have to reduce the lever (which in fact increase the angle of the blades) to reduce rpm. If you are slowing down, you must reduce the angle (pushing the lever) to keep your desired RPM, wheras a CSP (constant speed propeller) will adjust the angle to maintain the same RPM on it's own.

The settings for cruise dive, military power (see the link) are a combination of RPM and Manifold pressure/Boost (the gauge in ATA). Thoses settings are defined by the manufacturer of the engine as the best settings for the purpose. For example if you want the max power see the charts and set your MP to 1.3ata and your rpm at 2400. Increasing the rpm in this case above 2400rpm will only shorten engine life and reduce speed and acceleration, because 2400 is already the best combination for this task.

Don't think too mutch about cars because the comparison can be confusing, yes gears in cars and propeller pitch in aviation serves the same function (make an efficient use of the engine), but they work differenly, in the car you have only 5gears maybe, but in the plane you can adjust rpm with a full range between 0 to 2400 for the 109 (above 2500 is like the redline in your car.)

When you dive the procedure in the 109 was to throttle down and reduce the prop pitch at minimum, (see the manual in the il2 COD folder) take care of the temps, they could drop sharply.

Generally speking, a variable pitch prop is used to find the best thrust to drag ratio, because a propeller cause a lot of drag (i should say a huge amount of drag).

Finally if you don't have complete tables of performances for a plane try at least to find the max admissible rpm (besst power) on a document or internet and use the procedure described below to find a suitable cruise setting combination:

For cruising adjust the throttle to attain your desired speed (eg 200mph) and then reduce the rpm until you can no longer maintain this speed, the lowest rpm at which you can maintain the desired speed will be the best setting. When reducing rpm (if your manifold pressure is not on max but on a reasonable setting for cruise) your plane will accelerate, this is because the thrust to drag ratio will be better, so in order to keep the speed at eg. 200mph you will have to reduce the throttle. Once the trhrottle is reduced repeat the operations as long as you can maintain your desired speed. Here you see what's the use of the prop pitch = making the best use of the engine power, reducing consumption and wear that's great don't you think! :).

A last thing, the normal procedure is to increase rpm before increasing throttle, and to reduce throttle before decreasing rpm. This is to avoid detonations in the engine.

[klem]

Can anyone give similar advice for the Hurricane? Oil and water temps, plus optimum RPM and prop pitch? I'm just getting into CEM and I can't figure out how to keep the engine happy. At anything other than level flight I normally get black smoke and red flame pouring from the engine. I can adjust prop pitch and throttle to calm it, but I'm just guessing really!

With temperature effects my engine likely wouldn't last very long :)

We have a problem because the Hurricane (and Spitfire) mixture outputs are reversed to what they should be.
Engine Start:
Set mixture to RICH in cockpit.
Be aware that currently the mixture selection is reversed in the cockpit, RICH = WEAK and vice versa. On the DH prop Hurricane move the mixture lever all the way forward until it is fixed when it will be all the way back. On the Rotol Hurricane, closing the Throttle also closes the Mixture to RICH, which is what it should do on both Hurris. But remember RICH is in fact LEAN atm so with the Rotol move the throttle forward to just clear the START label then move the mixture up to just behind it, thats as RICH as you'll get without over-opening the throttle for startup. When running, handle the Rotol Hurri throttle opening carefully, moving the mixture lever forward behind the advancing throttle as much as engine running will allow. This should all go away once the problem has been fixed. See
http://forum.1cpublishing.eu/showpost.php?p=260970&postcount=5

Temps for takeoff:
Oil temp: min 15'C
Coolant temp: min 60'C (according to Pilots notes)

Open Radiator until you are in a position to manage the engine temp with it (70C - 90C, max 105C)

Takeoff prop is usually 3000 rpm, max boost. Climbout around 2600 with boost reduced around 4lbs. Combat in the region of 2600-2800. Cruise anywhere from 2000-2400, typically boost 0. These are from memory of the pilots notes but they should help.

[Rattlehead]

I'm also getting that shaking syndrome in the 109. It's an intermittent but permanent shaking and sometimes it eases off and sometimes it's really bad.

The only way I can make it stop is running the engine at full throttle. The prop pitch doesn't seem to matter. I've tried all settings of prop pitch but the shaking remains.
Radiator and oil radiator are open; sometimes I close the engine radiator a little but nothing I do seems to stop the shaking, except again if I run the aircraft at full throttle. Temperatures are normal. It's wierd.

I also have an info box open that shows engine damage, but according to the game I have no engine damage. (?)

[skouras]

Hi Ivan, check this link: http://www.shockwaveproductions.com/store/solo/bf109/ scroll down the page to find the engine limitations characteristics (they're for the 109e-4 but ok for the E-3).


There is 3 kinds of designs: Fixed pitch propeller, constant speed propeller, and variable pitch propeller.

- In the first one the blades of the propeller have a fixed angle, so increasing speed or throttle increase RPM. (eg some spits, the Tiger Moth)

- The CSP: (eg: some spits)
With a constant speed propeller the CSU (constant speed unit) adjust the angle of the blades in order to keep a certain RPM, if your speed increase or decrease or if you change the throttle position, the blades angles will be automatically adjusted by the mechanism to keep the rpm at the determined speed (I simplify, if you want more explanations don't bother to ask). So for example if you set your rpm to 3000, the rpm will not change with your speed (simplified again^^).

- The VPP: (eg. the 109)
In a variable pitch propeller (yes the CSP is also a variable pitch prop, but here there is no CSU, I hope I'm not too confusing, tell me if needed. The bf109 uses a VPP) you adjust directly the angle of the blades, the rpm will stay constant only if your speed and the throttle settings are stable (and i think altitude too). If you accelerate, the rpm will increase, because the angle of the blades will not adjust itself, (imagine that you are blowing with differents strenghts onto a small windmill like the ones for children) so you have to reduce the lever (which in fact increase the angle of the blades) to reduce rpm. If you are slowing down, you must reduce the angle (pushing the lever) to keep your desired RPM, wheras a CSP (constant speed propeller) will adjust the angle to maintain the same RPM on it's own.

The settings for cruise dive, military power (see the link) are a combination of RPM and Manifold pressure/Boost (the gauge in ATA). Thoses settings are defined by the manufacturer of the engine as the best settings for the purpose. For example if you want the max power see the charts and set your MP to 1.3ata and your rpm at 2400. Increasing the rpm in this case above 2400rpm will only shorten engine life and reduce speed and acceleration, because 2400 is already the best combination for this task.

Don't think too mutch about cars because the comparison can be confusing, yes gears in cars and propeller pitch in aviation serves the same function (make an efficient use of the engine), but they work differenly, in the car you have only 5gears maybe, but in the plane you can adjust rpm with a full range between 0 to 2400 for the 109 (above 2500 is like the redline in your car.)

When you dive the procedure in the 109 was to throttle down and reduce the prop pitch at minimum, (see the manual in the il2 COD folder) take care of the temps, they could drop sharply.

Generally speking, a variable pitch prop is used to find the best thrust to drag ratio, because a propeller cause a lot of drag (i should say a huge amount of drag).

Finally if you don't have complete tables of performances for a plane try at least to find the max admissible rpm (besst power) on a document or internet and use the procedure described below to find a suitable cruise setting combination:

For cruising adjust the throttle to attain your desired speed (eg 200mph) and then reduce the rpm until you can no longer maintain this speed, the lowest rpm at which you can maintain the desired speed will be the best setting. When reducing rpm (if your manifold pressure is not on max but on a reasonable setting for cruise) your plane will accelerate, this is because the thrust to drag ratio will be better, so in order to keep the speed at eg. 200mph you will have to reduce the throttle. Once the trhrottle is reduced repeat the operations as long as you can maintain your desired speed. Here you see what's the use of the prop pitch = making the best use of the engine power, reducing consumption and wear that's great don't you think! :).

A last thing, the normal procedure is to increase rpm before increasing throttle, and to reduce throttle before decreasing rpm. This is to avoid detonations in the engine.

excellent
exactly what i have in mind:grin:

[jrg]

This is strange Rattlehead, I've noticed some vibrations too with the 109, it seems bounded by a bad engine management but I'm not sure. I say that because since I take care of my engine, the plane dosen't shake as mutch.

[utu]

This is strange Rattlehead, I've noticed some vibrations too with the 109, it seems bounded by a bad engine management but I'm not sure. I say that because since I take care of my engine, the plane dosen't shake as mutch.
If you have full CEM, try with your 109 to climb at 20.000 without any epileptic shaking, if you'll have success tell how to pilot this 109.

[jrg]

Sorry my mistake, I tried, the plane was shaking, and needles bouncing. If you disable the headshake, the plane will not shake anymore, but needles will still bounce. The only way to have a calm plane is to uncheck the CEM. When you cut throttle or when you go full throttle, the erratic movements stop. Bizarre^^

[Redroach]

But remember RICH is in fact LEAN atm so with the Rotol move the throttle forward to just clear the START label then move the mixture up to just behind it, thats as RICH as you'll get without over-opening the throttle for startup. When running, handle the Rotol Hurri throttle opening carefully, moving the mixture lever forward behind the advancing throttle as much as engine running will allow. This should all go away once the problem has been fixed.

are you really sure about that? My hurricane seems to run best with the virtual lever, as well as the actual in-cockpit lever fully back - that seems to be my RICH position, as i can start smoothly, fly and fight smoothly with that. Leaning the mixture (from my PoV) only roughens up the flight, the engine starts to vibrate as if having failed ignitions, and it gets worse as I move the lever more forward.
Imo, I'd say the mixture levers in the Hurricane (Rotol, at least) are correctly implemented.

[Tymi]

are you really sure about that? My hurricane seems to run best with the virtual lever, as well as the actual in-cockpit lever fully back - that seems to be my RICH position, as i can start smoothly, fly and fight smoothly with that. Leaning the mixture (from my PoV) only roughens up the flight, the engine starts to vibrate as if having failed ignitions, and it gets worse as I move the lever more forward.
Imo, I'd say the mixture levers in the Hurricane (Rotol, at least) are correctly implemented.

How high can you go with the Hurricane? All planes that i have tried start to shake and bounce at around ~3km height. Leaning the mixture only makes things worse :(

[Redroach]

I practised that rather intensively (sort of) and after some time, I was up to 24000ft where the hurricane attains its max-speed, according to the manual. And that was without having the engine run too rough. Don't ask me how I did that, I had the same problems as you at first, but I can say that 24000ft is still not the altitude for full lean mixture ^-^

[Ivan Fooker]

I would like to hang in again into the "shaking" in the Bf109.
Is there any explanation for this shaking?
I try to play with the oil and cooler rad, but nothing actually changes.
So i ve no clue what i am doing wrong, to get rid of that shaking.

I mean the Bf109 has "automatic" mixture and using automatic charger.
So nothing to switch here.

Is it a bug or ....?

[jrg]

Good to bring this topic up, I'm still confused with this problem too. It really looks like a bug, because by switching CEM off or head shaking off you get rid of the problem. Full throttle and IDLE remove shaking for me is it the same for you Ivan?

[Ivan Fooker]

Yes exactly.
So really seems to be a bug ......?

[jrg]

I don't know. It seems that we are the only ones to be concerned by this problem xD, nobody have rushed in this topic to complain about the strange behaviour of the plane.

[jrg]

UP

Does anybody have the same vibration problem discussed above or I'm just missing something? Is there anything to fix but my mind?

[Blackdog_kt]

I think there might be more to what initially meets the eye. Currently, the shaking occurs at high altitudes when running less than full throttle and more than idle, but disappears when going to idle or full throttle.

I did some experimenting, based on someone else's observations with the ingame Hurricane and something i had read in a manual for an FSX add-on. In that manual it was advised to set propeller pitch to full fine for takeoff, unless the runway altitude was significantly high whereby it was advised to set it a bit coarser than normal.

That led me to think if the low-density air has some kind of effect on the propeller's "pull", making it harder to generate the same amount of thrust at higher altitudes for a given pitch and manifold pressure setting. Since running coarse pitch gets a bigger "bite" of air, i decided to test if i could get any improvement by running lower RPM.

So, i started climbing with the 109 at 1.2 Ata and sure enough, i got the engine shakes at some point around 4km. I then came back on the prop pitch and reduced RPM to a lower setting that i usually run only for accelerating in dives and level flight cruise at lower altitudes, the pitch indicator at 10:10 and RPM at 2100 or so.

Not only did the shaking disappear almost completely (i was still getting it but on a much smaller intensity and only as i was getting close to 6km), but the aircraft started climbing much better as well. When i trimmed out the climb it was accelerating much better and getting higher speeds.

I'm not sure how much tuning the CEM needs (the auto-mixture mechanics definitely seem in need of adjustment) but maybe there's more to it. Maybe the exact effects are over-pronounced but not entirely unrealistic, for example it might a realistic effect that's simply overdone and needs to be fine-tuned and toned down a bit.

Also, apart from the effects of low-density air at altitude, there might be another bit we are missing. What we do know is that there are limits to how low an RPM can be run at high manifold pressure settings (if you substantially reduce RPM the MP climbs and you need to throttle back to keep it within limits). What i suspect is that there might be not only a correlation between optimal RPM at different altitudes due to thin air, but also a limit as to how high an RPM we can run with reduced MP settings.

If you are diving and don't want to accelerate too much for example, you can go to idle in order to keep the RPM in check and then use full fine pitch. The prop wants to turn at full RPM but the engine doesn't provide the torque at idle, so it's windmilling as the prop blades are facing the airflow almost head-on, acting like an airbrake (that's how i prevent the 110 from going above 500km/h in dives, where the flutter and "snaking" currently seems to occur).

Since available MP drops as we climb maybe a similar effect occurs, namely a lack of engine power for the commanded pitch/RPM setting to work as it should and the propeller losing efficiency. This would be like climbing at full available power but with a bit of an airbrake effect thrown in, which might be possible to create shakes and buffeting.

Of course, the engine running rough due to the auto-mixture routines currently used complicates things and makes it harder to identify what really happens. It's true that the engine does run rough, it can be easily confirmed by the in-cockpit sound because the cut-outs are easily perceptible. I'm just wondering if there's also a second, completely aerodynamic effect which spoils things up high and depends on the ambient air pressure, available engine power and prop pitch mechanics.

I'm sure people like Viper2000 could shed some light on this, namely whether there's an upper RPM limit for a given (lower than full power) MP setting. Any ideas?

[jrg]

Generally the combination of rpm and mp are indicated in the plane's handbook and low rpm with high manifold presssure should be avoided because of the detonation problem (I've made some posts in this thread before about CEM where i speak about MP, RPM and prop pitch systems). For a lower MP than full power you should normally use a lower rpm than max rpm (again as the handbook indicate).

The airbrake effect you are speaking about is right, but normally as long as you keep MP and RPM in the right range/settings there shouldn't be any problem because the thrust to drag ratio is optimised when using the rights settings.

The shakings are not constant for me but there is a kind of stutter every 10 or 15s, I don't think this is related to graphic problems but only to a (maybe flawed) behaviour of the plane, because when I'm in external view or in cockpit view but without CEM or headshake activated the problem dosen't appear. For the vibration I still can't tell if it's a normal reaction of the plane due to a resonance effect induced by a certain frequency or an overmodelling/flaw.

[klem]

are you really sure about that? My hurricane seems to run best with the virtual lever, as well as the actual in-cockpit lever fully back - that seems to be my RICH position, as i can start smoothly, fly and fight smoothly with that. Leaning the mixture (from my PoV) only roughens up the flight, the engine starts to vibrate as if having failed ignitions, and it gets worse as I move the lever more forward.
Imo, I'd say the mixture levers in the Hurricane (Rotol, at least) are correctly implemented.

Just coming back to this. I've been flying the Hurricane (Rotol) for quite a while now - almost exclusively in fact - and I have to admit that with the mixture lever fully back it seems ok. I don't know if they changed anything without saying but I know when I started using CoD that I had problems starting and running the engine unless the lever was forward. Could have been me of course but I wasn't the only one in our Squad that had the problem. Now I get vibration if I lean the mixture (lever forward) although I can partly lean it off under some circumstances. I haven't tested it in any meaningful way - too busy having fun - but I must try some climbs to high altitude etc and see if I get the same mixture/vibration problems as some other guys. Of course they may not be 'problems', it may be how it is supposed to be. :)