My plane is banking

[FearOfHights]

Thanks for the offer, but I think shipping cost and import taxes here in Norway will make that more expensive than buying it from the store.
I was thinking about this one: http://www.komplett.no/k/ki.aspx?sku=301766
Now I know nothing about what is a good stick, and what aingt so good. How is the stick I put in the link?

[5./JG27.Farber]

mid range stick... So so...

Binky why you selling your G940, how old and how much?

[badfinger]

Originally Posted by 5./JG27.Farber

mid range stick... So so...

Binky why you selling your G940, how old and how much?

I became frustrated with trying to get to work as easily AND as well as my MS FFB stick. It 2yrs old, and not used much.

How does $275 sound?

Binky9

[AbortedMan]

$275 is really steep for a used G940.

I'm currently in the market for that stick and have been searching prices for a while now. I've found refurbished for $195 on Amazon and ~$300-$250 for a new one online and in-store at Fry's Electronics.

You make a reasonable price and I'll take that G940 right off your desk for ya when I get paid next Friday.

EDIT: Keep in mind refurbished is *factory* refurbished. So guaranteed operational. With free shipping and at $195, a competitive price for a transaction between two 1C forum-goers would be ~$180-$175 out the door, almost/like-new condition, that's including shipping costs. Add two years old/hardly used and, honestly and intelligently thinking, I would pay ~$160-$150 since I'm not getting the assurance of a completely working product and its full life cycle that I would out of the box or factory refurbished/re-qualified as marketable merchandise.

...just trying to think realistically if you're serious about selling your G940.

[badfinger]

Originally Posted by AbortedMan

$275 is really steep for a used G940.

I'm currently in the market for that stick and have been searching prices for a while now. I've found refurbished for $195 on Amazon and ~$300-$250 for a new one online and in-store at Fry's Electronics.

You make a reasonable price and I'll take that G940 right off your desk for ya when I get paid next Friday.

EDIT: Keep in mind refurbished is *factory* refurbished. So guaranteed operational. With free shipping and at $195, a competitive price for a transaction between two 1C forum-goers would be ~$180-$175 out the door, almost/like-new condition, that's including shipping costs. Add two years old/hardly used and, honestly and intelligently thinking, I would pay ~$160-$150 since I'm not getting the assurance of a completely working product and its full life cycle that I would out of the box or factory refurbished/re-qualified as marketable merchandise.

...just trying to think realistically if you're serious about selling your G940.

Negotiations...I love'm. Make me an offer.

binky9

[AbortedMan]

Post some detailed pictures of the button clusters, joystick, throttle group, and pedal surfaces and we can get this deal rollin!

or email em to pushbecomeshove@gmail.com, or you can just text me the pics if you want to take pics with your phone (if it has a good camera), I'll give you my cell # if you request it in email...or PM...does this forum have PMs?

[Redroach]

...to get back to the original bloke's question: If you fly the Hurricane and Spitfire, they both have rudder trim, which could remedy your problem somewhat.
Ideally, for cancelling any banking, there would be aileron trims (which cancels auto-movement exactly along the axis you have problems with), but neither the Hurri nor the Spit do have that - so you have to trim (somewhat) around the yaw axis, that is, an axis drawn from your pilot's head down his spine and so on (not necessarily exactly centered on the pilot, for the nitpickers )
So, you may see some problems already when imagining that - yaw trim does cancel engine torque, but you:
a) may have to be trimming rather boldly - it's not just a few 'clicks' if your engine runs at full throttle, more like a few ten clicks.
b) may introduce some yaw in the other direction which let's you drift off-course over time and which you should consider because of that. So either you don't trim as hard and do the rest manually, or correct your course from time to time (this may be rather oftern) or you reduce throttle, which helps on engine torque and reduces the problem to begin with.

Hope that helps.

P.S.: The Hurri and Spit have an instrument for that in the cockpit: the turn & bank indicator. It's the instrument which has two hands, looking somewhat mirrored along the horizontal axis. The lower hand gives your banking angle and the upper hand helps with correcting excessive yaw: If the hand is in the middle, you've canceled any auto-yaw and you should fly straight along the course you've set (not considering wind etc.), albeit probably your automatic banking may not be entirely canceled, as described above.

[badfinger]

Originally Posted by AbortedMan

Post some detailed pictures of the button clusters, joystick, throttle group, and pedal surfaces and we can get this deal rollin!

or email em to pushbecomeshove@gmail.com, or you can just text me the pics if you want to take pics with your phone (if it has a good camera), I'll give you my cell # if you request it in email...or PM...does this forum have PMs?

I'll take some pics over the weekend. Let me know where to send them. PMs are available, so send me a number.

binky9

[DC0]

Originally Posted by FearOfHights

I was thinking about this one: http://www.komplett.no/k/ki.aspx?sku=301766
Now I know nothing about what is a good stick, and what aingt so good. How is the stick I put in the link?

It is very good stick. With some time investment into programming this stick you will have very good controls over plane.
Though the best stick would be HOTAS Cougar with Hall sensors. It still beats them all.