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#1
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It's actually very easy to reduce the centering force for the warthog with very easy mods.
There are three ways: 1.) Extend the shaft. This will give you more accuracy and less centering force. 2.) Unscrew the top 8(?) screws from the silver ring and the four black screws hidden under the 8 screw silver ring. Remove the black heavy spring and place the four small springs from the bottom on top of piston through the rods. See this tutorial: 3.) Replace the bottom four springs with more powerful springs. In my case, I purchased a pack of assorted small springs from homedepot and stacked 4 small springs on top of the bottom springs. |
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#2
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Does it have a lot of trim wheels? One of the things I like about my x52 is all the rotories on the throttle to map stuff with.
I do own DCS A10c, but I'll mainly be flying CloD with this. My x52 gives my arm a workout when flying so I can only imagine what a real stick like this will do. Build strong wrist muscles. |
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#3
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Quote:
But with so many good and easy to handle switches, you will be able to use the button trims. Remember this is an "authentic" throttle and stick of a real warplane (A10) so Thrustmaster made it look authentic (= no addiitonal trim wheels @recoilfx: THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU That is great to know! My Warthog stick did not survive 24hrs with me, I put the stick back in the box and still use my SW2FFB ...where I leave the stick, the position stays as long as I do not engage the light sensor ~S~ |
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#4
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Warthog user here. Use Target and once you get a good understanding of how the bindings operate you have lots of possibilities. In fact I think using Target really makes the thing work better.
I would have liked rotaries as on my X52 throttle and this was a possible barrier, but the quality and "feel" of the stick are a quantum leap ahead. I am very happy with the switch from my CH Fighterstick + X52 throttle. Hood |
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#5
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I use TARGET as well. Once I got it figured out I've found it pretty straightforward (I only use "basic", haven't done any scripting for it). The Warthog HOTAS also works great with COD as a simple "plug 'n play", it's easy to assign the various buttons, switches, and axis to the aircraft controls using the in-game menu. Many, if not most, players wouldn't really need TARGET for CoD, I don't think.
Plug 'n play would've done me fine except I wanted to use a joystick button to turn FRAPS on & off. FRAPS doesn't recognize Directx controls as a hotkey (Naturalpoint's TrackIR have figured it out, though). I eventually got a reply back from FRAPS -- they seemed surprised that anyone would want to use a joystick button as a hotkey when you have a perfectly good 104-key keyboard right in front of you in the heat of a dogfight! And then they returned to their Pong office championship....... @Recoilfx: as with Athos -- Thank you!!!! Nothing like a little video to clearly show how to do what appears to be a simple task. Like Athos, I brought my FFSB2 out of retirement because I found the big Warthog stick too stiff <uh, pardon?> and clunky. I've only returned back to it for the extra on-stick controls and the use of TARGET, but didn't exactly love it for prolonged maneuvring. I also like the suggestion on the video to simply use a few washers under each of the four repositioned smaller springs if you find the stick a little too mushy. I use a couple of levers on my CH Quadrant for trimming which work extremely well -- more responsive than button/hat controls IMHO.
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Last edited by ATAG_Snapper; 01-06-2012 at 12:38 PM. |
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#6
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I think it's ridiculous that Flight Sims developers do not ship default profiles for the major joysticks. I hate the amount of time I have to spend on adding all these key bindings before I start the game. Sometimes I don't even know what to bind since I havn't learned what the function is yet!
There are what, only 7-8 major joysticks (Warthog, Cougar, x52, g40, t1600m, hotas x, 3d extreme pro, msffb2, ch combat sticks).. If they spend one day of an employee time just make these few default profiles, it would save us so much time and the game would seem more polished. What ticks me off even more about CloD is that some of the major functions such complex engine management operations aren't even bond to the keyboards. |
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#7
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looks like I'm the only one who likes the muscle training with the stick.
My first Joystick was a Thrustmaster X-Fighter, with the badest spring ever. Playing Tie Fighter and X-Wing vs Tie Fighter for hours. Best muscle training ever. After one month you didn't had any problems anymore. ( Also a good excuse for not going to fitness studios |
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#8
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I realize that this thread is old but maybe someone will find use in it as I did when I first got my warthog and it was to stiff.
Of the fixes listed, number three is the way to go. Those bottom four springs lessen the tension of the large coil spring. All one needs to do is double those up (two on each post or get slightly stronger replacements. I doubled them and used some molycote mL30 plastics grease and mine is perfect. The number two fix that leaves the coil spring out and moves the bottom springs to the top works but lessens the full range of movement since they compress and get in the way a bit at the end of the travel. Just go to the hardware store and get the same little four springs and double them up on the bottom. put the big coil back and your good to go. Smooth as butter and no cramped wrist. |
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