Saitek Cyborg FLY 9 Wireless Flightstick - REVIEW - Page 7

SEE · #61 08-15-2010, 06:20 PM

It is a design fault and, unless Madcatz modify the method to secure the leads that connect to the floating rudder potentiometer, it will keep happening! It's a simple mod they need to carry out in manufacture that involves a small piece of plastic being added to the base of the yoke to provide a better anchor point for the wires but they also need to mount the potentiometer 180 degrees off-set from the current position due to the proximity of the battery housing as it interferes with the natural movement of the wires. The rudder problem has been cured since carrying out the mod on my stick.

markyboyacebassist · #62 08-16-2010, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SEE

It is a design fault and, unless Madcatz modify the method to secure the leads that connect to the floating rudder potentiometer, it will keep happening! It's a simple mod they need to carry out in manufacture that involves a small piece of plastic being added to the base of the yoke to provide a better anchor point for the wires but they also need to mount the potentiometer 180 degrees off-set from the current position due to the proximity of the battery housing as it interferes with the natural movement of the wires. The rudder problem has been cured since carrying out the mod on my stick.

Sounds to me like they need Angelo on their design team!

bobbysocks · #63 08-16-2010, 06:37 PM

i second that...or as a PAID consultant or tester!

Kirki · #64 08-16-2010, 07:22 PM

Any detailed advice on how to fix my flight stick myself? I would rather try and fix it if its fairly straightforward.

bobbysocks · #65 08-16-2010, 08:25 PM

yes you can do it. BUT call madcatz ahead of time!! and get the reps name. he will get your info and the ok so you dont void your warranty. he will give you instructions which basically are" take the bottom off. there are screws under the rubber anti skid pads. once in, there are 3 wires on the rudder pot. one (or more) has disconnected. they are soldered and then covered in hot glue. getting through the glob of glue to them is a royal pain in the @$$. solder the wire back on the pot.. rehot glue it...i used clear silicone. and reassemble. if that is too much for you you can send it in...if you fix it and it doesnt work you can do the same. but like i said have the reps name and phone extension...just in case.

SEE · #66 08-16-2010, 09:59 PM

Re-applying hot melt glue after the wire(s) have been re-soldered will not solve the problem, if it did then they wouldn't break away in the first place! The base of the yoke is the same size as the potentiometer and the glue can only be applied directly onto the soldered joint. Too compound the problem you must not get any glue on the outer circumference of the yoke base otherwise it will stop the rudder from twisting. The wires will simply break away again after a short period of time so forget re-applying hot melt glue over the soldered joints.

With the base removed you will see that hot melt glue is also used to secure the rudder pot to the base of the yoke (it doesn't need this as the rudder pot clips into place). You could remove the hot melt glue from one side of the potentiometer and run your newly soldered wires along the side of the pot and then apply hot melt glue to secure the wires and the pot (killing two birds with one stone so to speak!). The wires are now secured away from the soldered joint but to the base of the yoke and well away from the outer circumference (which must be free to rotate). The wires are now feeding from the opposite direction and will no longer be fouling the the battery housing (which was also part of the problem).

They (Madcatz) should have sorted this by now - its not exactly rocket science!

hurricane · #67 08-19-2010, 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobbysocks

i second that...or as a PAID consultant or tester!

thats all we need angelo testing flight sticks online.i can here it now.my stick is knackered,oh bloody hell iv'e been got.i hate this bloody map ican't see a thing.or if the mic is screwed up aaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyy?

SEE · #68 08-19-2010, 02:37 AM

Not many to test for Xbox, I would be redundant after 10 minutes....

Fortunately, the days of knackered 'out of the box' flight sticks doing my head in has long past and, yep!, I hate those horrid, murky grey, can't see sweet F/A furball maps where it all happens at 25 ft above the deck...........I really hate them!

Kirki · #69 08-19-2010, 06:20 AM

Thanks for the advice, I will speak to Madcats and see if they will go for it. Funnily enough after sending an email to Madcats and telling them this is my second stick they offered to collect it and fix it free of charge, which is how it should be really.

SEE · #70 08-20-2010, 12:16 AM

The Cyborg X (for PC) has exactly the same rudder set up but the wires never fall off. The only difference is that there is no battery housing to interfere with the movement of the wires attached to the rudder pot. They offered to pick mine up when it failed three days after purchase and sent me a new one. They said that they wanted to keep it and evaluate why it failed - they obviousley didn't come with a solution!

All the best with the repair/replacement.