Joystick mods

[Jotaele]

Originally Posted by jimbop

Looks good, can you post here when you've done your simhq article?

Sure jim! In the meantime, you can visit the flicker gallery i have created to the fotos.Just click the fotos ( i guess , im new at flicker).

[jimbop]

Originally Posted by Sokol1

If I remember correctly, above 500/600$.

Contact this guy: http://www.cubpilotshangar.net/

Sokol1

Yes, I'm aware of the sites but thanks Sokol1. If that much, why not just buy the warthog? SimHQ review at least places the warthog in front of the U2NXT Cougar at http://www.simhq.com/_technology3/technology_174b.html:

"The stick feels superb; it goes where you want it, when you want it. I have a Cougar with U2 NXT gimbals (considered a very good Cougar gimbal mod for accurate and light stick forces) with which to compare the HOTAS Warthog (see a description of the U2 NXT mod here). The HOTAS Warthog feels much better than the NXT Cougar and is much smoother mechanically. The HOTAS Warthog requires slightly more force to move away from center, but the required force stays constant throughout the range of the stick’s motion. The NXT Cougar, on the other hand, starts out with very light stick forces when moving away from center, and then the forces increase at the more extreme travel because the Cougar’s rubber boot stretches. The NXT Cougar tends to oscillate about the joystick center point due to its engineering design and its light springs. The HOTAS Warthog’s coil spring design prevents that from happening, as shown in the video below. The coil spring design also means that there is absolutely no transition from the X to the Y axis and vice versa. Overall the HOTAS Warthog stick feels much better than the NXT Cougar, and the NXT Cougar is already a massive leap over the stock Cougar gimbals. Thrustmaster has made a huge improvement with the HOTAS Warthog’s joystick design."

[Widowmaker214]

jimbop,

Yeah, 600ish is about what I spent.

Why?
For one, I have two sets of them. I also have two sets of rudders. That plug into them.

The warthog IS cool. And I actually plan to get one, But honestly I prefer the layout of the cougar throttle, buttons and rotaries.

I'll snatch up a warthog , but I like my cougar.

[JumpingHubert]

i had a nice finding for do it yourself hall sensor:
http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.ph...o_Hall_Se.html
or this variant:
http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.ph...3225807/1.html

here for example you can buy these hall sensors:
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-x-A1302-Ratiom...item27b978db4b

You only need to fix 2 neodym magnets to the axis and place the sensor in front of the magnets in the right way (look first link).

I ordered 5 of the sensors (x-y-throttle-pedals) and neodym from ebay http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...m=200537868229 . Next days I will give it a try!

8,80 Euro for 5 hall sensors

Little tip for hotas cougar owners and the problem of too strong springs: wear out the springs with two wrenches a little bit. In combination with a joystick-extension its now very very smooth without transition between the axis.

[AlleyViper]

As you currently have no time, I'm yet to put my hands on CoD and put my Über Cougar with GP Simped Vario Pros to work (collecting dust for >3 years ). There's also a very professional kit alternative to HAL+U2NXT, FSSB kits:

http://www.realsimulator.com/html/fssb.html

Despite a less than natural non moving stick for prop planes, it's very precise and it should be very useful in a desk setup with stick and throttle on your sides, like with the original F16 stick that is also force actuated. Just pair this with Simped F16, or add the optional toe tip F16 pedal brakes to the Vario Pros (as these have more travel) for the full experience on jet sims.

[julian265]

Originally Posted by jimbop

Thanks - I've just been thinking about using a U-joint or similar for building a stick and now I know I'm not crazy... A car U-joint seems a bit excessive though? What about a tie rod end or something?

Is that yours in the link?

Yes, that's my stick.

There's no such thing as excessive when it comes to human input devices!
Also my stick uses the weight (inertia) to give it a more realistic feel.

People have also used motorbike u-joints, which are smaller but can still retain the hollow cross-piece / spider. You might also check out steering u-joints, although they won't have the axis holes, but the metal might be soft enough to drill and tap, unlike u-joint's cross-piece.

IIRC all the completely custom built gimbals are larger than these u-joints, but of course they are made to perfectly suit the base, grip and sensors.

A tie rod end's movement isn't separated nicely into two axes (also it can rotate in the Z axis), so you'd find it harder to measure the X and Y rotation with sensors, whereas a u-joint has done it already. However, there are three axis sensors that can deal witht this method.

[JumpingHubert]

@julian
i´ve overlook your brilliant solution with the u-joint. Wow!

[julian265]

Originally Posted by JumpingHubert

@julian
i´ve overlook your brilliant solution with the u-joint. Wow!

Thanks. It's not just mine - there are a few around.

[jimbop]

Originally Posted by Widowmaker214

jimbop,

Yeah, 600ish is about what I spent.

Why?
For one, I have two sets of them. I also have two sets of rudders. That plug into them.

The warthog IS cool. And I actually plan to get one, But honestly I prefer the layout of the cougar throttle, buttons and rotaries.

I'll snatch up a warthog , but I like my cougar.

Good reasons!

[jimbop]

Originally Posted by julian265

Yes, that's my stick.

There's no such thing as excessive when it comes to human input devices!
Also my stick uses the weight (inertia) to give it a more realistic feel.

People have also used motorbike u-joints, which are smaller but can still retain the hollow cross-piece / spider. You might also check out steering u-joints, although they won't have the axis holes, but the metal might be soft enough to drill and tap, unlike u-joint's cross-piece.

IIRC all the completely custom built gimbals are larger than these u-joints, but of course they are made to perfectly suit the base, grip and sensors.

A tie rod end's movement isn't separated nicely into two axes (also it can rotate in the Z axis), so you'd find it harder to measure the X and Y rotation with sensors, whereas a u-joint has done it already. However, there are three axis sensors that can deal witht this method.

Thanks julian265, interesting stuff. How do you find the transition between axes? Is there resistance which favours a particular axis when you gently move diagonally from the centre? Difficult to explain what I mean...