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  #1  
Old 06-26-2012, 11:02 PM
rdop rdop is offline
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Default Cockpit building with Leo Bodner parts

Has anyone tried building a switch panel with the Leo Bodner USB driven boards? If it looks as straitforward as it seems I may give it a try. Thanks for any feedback. www.leobodnar.com/products/BU0836X/
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  #2  
Old 06-27-2012, 07:26 AM
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Artist Artist is offline
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I did.

Mk I: see here

Mk II: see Part I, Part II

Artist

Left side:


Right side:


On the workbench:
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Ceterum censeo the mixture axis should be supported in IL-2 1946' DeviceLink.

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  #3  
Old 06-27-2012, 07:58 AM
rdop rdop is offline
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You have inspired me to try and build one. Did you put in a dedicated power supply? I see the small box with what looks like cooling slots. Thanks.
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  #4  
Old 06-27-2012, 08:18 AM
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I recommend that you read the posts linked above (if German is not one of your strengths use google translate and pester me with questions afterwards . If it is one of your strengths you may ask any question anyway ).

"dedicated power supply": No, the 5V 100mA provided by USB are quite sufficient for the LED backlight (5 LEDs at 20mA for each of the two BUs). That's one of the reasons I used the BU836As: The BU836X does not have pins to grab these 5V from.

"looks like cooling slots": No, that are two self made plug-fields for the button matrixes of the BU836As (see Bodnar's site for details). I've used the BU836As rather than BU836Xs because with 72 buttons and 16 axes cableing becomes a space problem (=144 + 48 wires). With the A's button matrix it's just 7 wires for every six buttons.

Artist

Edit: Orthography
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Ceterum censeo the mixture axis should be supported in IL-2 1946' DeviceLink.

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Last edited by Artist; 06-27-2012 at 09:59 AM.
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  #5  
Old 06-27-2012, 09:39 AM
Kodoss Kodoss is offline
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Looks like I'm not the only nuts here

If you want some more inspiration, look in my sig.

Salute.
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  #6  
Old 06-27-2012, 09:57 AM
bolox bolox is offline
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more than a few people have built switch panels (or more) for CoD/IL2.
Bodnar boards are quite popular and a good basis for a first project (imho)

http://forum.1cpublishing.eu/showthread.php?t=29958
http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php...-Thread-Part-2

and here is always worth a look- tho not all specifically for WWII stuff there's always good ideas to 'borrow/modify'
http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.ph..._Builders.html

If this is your first ever build i would recommend trying out how different switch types work with the game interface first before building the 'final' version. (final being probably the wrong word as once you start building it can get addictive )
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  #7  
Old 06-27-2012, 08:42 PM
rdop rdop is offline
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Thanks for the input guys! Lots of great info.
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  #8  
Old 06-27-2012, 10:56 PM
5./JG27.Farber 5./JG27.Farber is offline
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I am building a109 pit, can anyone tell me the difference between the 3 cards he offers because I cant work it out.

Oddly the names get more sophisticated the lower in cost the board is and they all seem to do the same thing except the top board has fancy terminals...


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  #9  
Old 06-28-2012, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5./JG27.Farber View Post
I am building a109 pit
I think I've seen pictures of it, could that be? Can't remember in which forum that was.

Quote:
can anyone tell me the difference between the 3 cards he offers because I cant work it out.
The BU836, BU836A, BU836X are essentially feature identical: 32 buttons, a 4-button POV (formerly known as coolie hat), and 8 axes. The only "feature" which is on BU836 and BU836A only are the two pins for 5V supply.

The (only) difference between BU836 and BU836A is that the axes on the BU836 are 10-bit precision (1024 steps) and those of the BU836A are 12-bit precision (4096 steps).

The difference of the BU836X is that it has easy sockets (Push-in terminals) for all the 200 wires to connect the buttons, axes and POV (144+48+ and has no sockets for 5V supply.

Artist
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